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  1. 2 points
    Hi All, This is starting to do my head in. I have a constant problem with the nozzles blocking part way through a print. It will happen more so on PLA than ABS but will happen with both. I have tried pretty much everything other than changing out the nozzle. I have pulled the nozzles apart (painful as it is) multiple times to clean and make sure there is no physical blockage. At the moment I am trying desperately to get PLA to print without bringing the whole print to a clicking mess. Must have tried to print the same model 20 times now. I have increased temperature in 5 oC increments all the way to 230. I have dropped the temp to 200. I have slowed print speed to a crawl, speed it up to blur. Increased and decreased retractions. Tried Simplify3D and MankatiUM slicers. Tried Yelling, screaming and gnashing teeth.I know this is can be a frustrating game but this is not fun. I have my Printrbot Plus printing like a dream on ABS and an XT Plus looking like a potential boat anchor. What I have noticed is the raft goes down well as do the first few layers, but once it gets to a bit more heavy infill it all turns to click click click. Any suggestions welcome.
  2. 2 points
    Hi Guys, For those who haven't heard of it Simplify 3D is an awesome slicer with many great features. It is not free like many others but you definitely get what you pay for. You can preview your print in layers to see if there are problems. You can create your own support material. You can control all settings on a layer by layer basis. Infill can be many different patterns. Slicing is quick. You can repair files if need be. Plus many other features. I wish they were paying me to say this but they are not. I just think it is awesome. The only bummer is that there is no trial. It's a leap of faith. I jumped and am pretty glad I did. Let me know if you would like any more info. Cheers Nick
  3. 2 points
    Here is the full monty Fullscale XT V4.0-Marlin.zip Marlin for Fullscale XT Plus.zip Mankati Fullscale XT Firmware - Green Main Board- Zstep 640.hex Mankati Fullscale XT Firmware - Green Main Board - Zstep 800.hex Mankati Fullscale XT Firmware - Blue Main Board - Zstep 800.hex Mankati Fullscale XT Firmware - Blue Main Board - Zstep 640.hex V5.1 XT Plus.rar V4.0.rar 3.8 Mankati DM02.hex.zip
  4. 2 points
    Hi Abby0910 Absolutely! My profile is attached and a pdf of tips etc I have set up a dropbox folder for anyone who is interested. It has files,profiles etc all in one place Send me an email address and I can share the folder with you Cheers, Nick Nicks XT.fff sim3dtipsx22.pdf
  5. 2 points
    Hi All, I've since pulled my Full-scale XT gantry apart twice, first time to install e3d V6 hotends, second time to install the XT Plus hotends. I've owned it for a long while, and it's done it's fair share of work. And I have only very recently installed the XT Plus hotends. Now, I have done it in a rush both times and am yet to document the process of removing the gantry setup from the machine. I truly apologise for this as well. But I am more than happy to provide hints and tips for anyone who is going to give it a good shot. So I'll get the ball rolling... There are two processes here, removing the gantry and installing the new hotends and plugging in all the electrics to their correct terminals. For the former process I recommend the following: - Tools needed are a phillips head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers to hold nuts while you tighten bolts. I'd also recommend having a pair of small tweezers handy for the nuts in the front left corner of the machine (could be my massive fingers or my pliers are too large). - Begin by undoing the four heated bed bolts and unclipping the heater and thermostat connections. Take the bed out of the machine and then remove the back panel. It is held by four small phillips head screws. Take it out and you will be able to see the z axis stage, some wires, stepper motors etc. - The traveling 'rod end support' blocks for the X and Y axes have a phillips screw that holds the block to the rod end. This needs to be loosened first, and after doing so you can feel slack in the system already. - Each rod end is where you are looking to remove fasteners next, the rod ends have a piece of laser cut acrylic with two bolts on either side. The acrylic holds a flanged bearing and this is what the rod is held with. The rods have a groove and retaining clip (and some shims/washers) at the end, do not worry about these. The acrylic bearing support bolts are all you want to remove. Do this on all corners AND BE PREPARED TO DROP SOME BOLTS. I had a magnetic parts dish handy to help me here. - I recommend removing all nuts and leaving the bolts in to support the gantry while you think it through, otherwise you can come unstuck rather quickly here and drop the entire gantry. I also recommend getting some string or the likes and tying the XY rods to the machines handles on the case. This will prevent the entire assembly dropping when you remove the bolts. - Remove the bolts and begin to shimmy the gantry down. This is where it can go pear shaped if you aren't weary of what you are doing. You will need to keep an eye on the acrylic rod end supports, the flanged bearings and the shims. If they fall to the base of the machine, that's ok. Just take note of what shims came from what rod end. - As the gantry is disassembled the drive belts will either be in your way and you may have to move them off their pulleys. Do so if required, and move the gantry down low enough that the linear rails that the hotends ride on can be removed from the XY sliding blocks (that you loosened the screw from to begin with) can be removed. If you're tricky enough you can slide them out, throw the old hotend over the back of the machine and slide the new hotend back in its place. I don't mean to make this sounds easy, I found it quite tricky. - Now the tedious part...You'll need to have the gantry back in shape, the belts on correctly, the laser cut bearing assemblies and shims on correctly and push the whole gantry system back up into position all while picking up a couple of bolts to hold it all back into shape. I had to use tweezers on a couple of bolts because I just couldn't get my fingers or the pliers there. You'll need to ensure the two moving rods (of which the hotends ride on directly) are in the sliding blocks as well. The first time I did this it took me a few turns, and I won't lie, a few was a dozen. It is tedious, not mechanically difficult. When you get your head in there with a torch in your hand it will be obvious as to what you have to do. Again I apologise for no pictures or videos. I'm writing this from my phone. So bare with me! For the latter of the two process I mentioned: - Begin by assessing the new XT Plus hotend. My wires were all red or black and red, with labelling to differentiating them. So I tugged on each respective item form the hotend side and labelled with with a tab of tape and a marker. The connections are - Thermistor 1 (LHS) (T1 on controller board) - Thermistor 2 (RHS) (T2 on controller board) - Heater 1 (LHS) (HE1 on controller board) - Heater 2 (RHS) (HE2 on controller board) - Fan 1 (LHS) (FAN1 on controller board) - Fan 2 (RHS) (FAN2 on controller board) - Turbo fan (squirrel cage at back of hotends blowing into yellow piece) (HE3 on controller board) So... Connect the thermistors, the heaters and the fans and take note that the 'turbo fan' connects to HE3. Be sure to ensure the polarity of your connections are correct to what is depicted on the board. Red + /Black - Go to the following link http://www.mankati.com/download/ and download the latest Mankati UM. You will need this software to upgrade the firmware of the machine to the latest available, which is V5.0. Install the Mankati UM software. You'll need the USB to Type B USB cable that came with the machine (or your favourite type b USB cable you have laying around). Plug in the computer to the machine and check your device manager to ensure that the computer is picked up on a serial communications port. If it isn't, you can trouble shoot this by doing many different things. My recommended first though is to go the Mankati UM file directorate and install the controller board driver to your computer...On my Windows 7 PC it is...C:\Program Files (x86)\MankatiUM_6.5.3\drivers\RRD_RUMBA_TAURINO_DriverSetup...And then try again and see if it is connected to your computer. The hexadecimal file is preloaded in the Mankati UM program directorate, and is accessed by (when in Mankati UM) gong to the top task bar and opening 'Machine>>Install default firmware'. If you really want to be sure you are selecting the correct firmware, you can choose 'Install custom firmware' and zoom to the Mankati Program File directorate. On my Windows 7 PC it is...C:\Program Files (x86)\MankatiUM_6.5.3\resources\firmware\Fullscale XT Plus V5.0.hex The file locations I've referenced are from my memory so they may be slightly wrong. Apologies if they are. I hope this is of some help. Any questions and I'll answer whatever I can. I'd love to help. One day I support it with photos or videos (I may have a garage full of CNC equipment, but I don't have a camera outside of my mobile phone haha) Kind regards, James Armstrong.
  6. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0

    22 downloads

    Hi, Here is a door handle for the Manakti perspex door. This will fully enclose the Mankati if have a hood on the top (the best way to print ABS). Mongrel.
  7. 1 point
    Hi Fiteeket, No problem. Yes, replacing the tube on the XT is a bit of a fuss because the clips by which it is secured to the (red) guide block are a bit difficult to remove. Or perhaps I simply did it the wronig way. Also, the tube swells a bit after long use and will be very tight in the PEEK, so that is hard to remove. The XT Plus is much more simple, because you can simply unscrew the Bowden tube from the guide block. I often do this if the nozzle gets clogged, just to push a bit of filament through to see if I can clear it that way (often helps) or to just put a few drops of sunflower oil in it. The oil seems to reduce the tendency to clog. In total, my XT has had twice the printing hours of the XT Plus. That said, on the XT I never got printing with ABS correct so I simply don't use ABS on the XT. With the XT Plus, printing ABS actually works very well. I am not sure why this is, but on the XT, my ABS layers never seem to be as strong as they should be. I really don't level the bed very much. I use 3D Lac spray to simply put a thin cover on the glass bed and that sticks very well. Except for Nylon that is, but I don't used that much any more. On the XT Plus, I need to replace the cooling fan again because on of the wires got lose. I really want to design a new fan holder for the print cooling fan. The original model always gets damaged after a while. At the moment it works. I have a E3D V6 Hotend with all the works, but I haven't had the time to install it yet. Actually, at the moment, I don't get that many clogged nozzles any more. I have no experience with the Bondtech extruders. About a year ago, I was really thinking about getting one (on the XT), but after getting my Bowden tube problem solved, I don't seem to need it anymore. My basic procedure for a print is simple. 1) Heat the printer and bed to the right temperature 2) While doing that, I wipe the printbed with a slightly damp cloth and then spray a bit of 3D Lac on it in the area where I am going to print. 3) Extrude about 15-30 mm of filament from the nozzle after heating it up. The way the filament will flow usually tells me already if I have a clogging problem. Also, I usually need to do this after switching filament type and/or color to get the last remains out of the nozzle 4) Start the print. 5) Watch the way the first layer is laid down. If it doesn't go right, I immediately stop the print, lower the bed, clean it and start again.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Fiteeket, Long post but with a familiar problem I have both a Mankati XT (my first 3D Printer) as well as the XT Plus (second printer). I basically used them every day for print. The XT has been used for about 6700 hours now, the XT Plus for 3380 hours. Both are busy printing as we speak. I have had problems with both printers because of clogged nozzles. With the XT, when the printer is having issues with extrusion, it is either the nozzle being blockedd OR the last part of the Bowden tube that extends into the nozzle has some filament residue stacking up inside. If you have printed for a long time and you remove the nozzle, you will notice that the end of the Bowden tube has become brown and or has even deformed. The first thing you can do is use a 2.5 or 3mm drill bit and simply drill out any remaining and stuck filament in the tube. I sometimes push a 3mm iron wire through the whole Bowden to push out any remaing stuff. This will work for some time but after having done this several times, you will have damaged the inside of the tube and the problems will reappear. Second thing you can do is to remove the PEEK block, loosen the tube and push it through 1-2 cm and cut if off again at a point where it is nice and clean again. Make sure you cut it off straight because otherwise you will be oozing filament out of strange places. This is a bit of work and you will have to fiddle a bit for the first time. Just make sure you do not bend the guide rods of course because that would ruin your printer. You can also buy a new Bowden tube and replace the whole tube. I have done this on March 26th this year and the printer has been running another 1150 hours since. To be honest, I do get failed prints sometimes because the nozzle can still get clogged. Usually this happens after switching different types of filament
  9. 1 point
    The Heatsink-Fans start spinning when 40°C are reached... The Turbo-Fan is only used for delicate Filament like PLA (or even for PETG), which needs cooling when printing... It's that easy. ABS does not need the Turbo-Fan. It can disconnect the Part from the Bed when using the Turbo-Fan on ABS...
  10. 1 point
    Hello,please let me introduce you a DIY filament drying box. Maybe, some of you are still bothered with the problem that nylon material is very easy to become damp. Today, I want to share an easy way to make a drying box with you.Annex is the production process of graphic introduction, you can refer to it. 1.Essential materials and instruments: air-tight storage box(7*24*20cm,volume 1L), rapid connector, 2 pairs of nuts and bolts, drying agent, filament stand, hygrometer, tube connector, pistol drill, glue gun. 2.Drill on the opposite side of the handler 3.Using nuts and bolts to fix the tube connector at the right positio 4.Screw the rapid connector tightly into the tube connector, and stick in a tube 5.Using the glue gun to seal this connecting part airtight 6.Attach the hygrometer onto the inner surface of the drying box using a dual adhesive tape 7.Done 8.Working PS. The tube connector and filament stand need to be 3D printed.
  11. 1 point
    Hi Leeman, It looks like you are having a similar problem I have had once last year. It was caused by one of the belt pulleywheels attached to the rotating rods that was slipping. In my case, I had to replace one of those very tiny screws because I could not tighten it strongly enough to keep it from slipping on the axis. Let me know if it works.
  12. 1 point
    Hi The firmware upgrade post aThe auto bed leveling post All the requirements are in the post. Good luck for all the mods David
  13. 1 point
    Hi guys, Of course,you can use normal PC UPS,but the power type have some requirement (output DC 24V,15A).
  14. 1 point
    Hi Leeman Looks like the issue I've experienced some months ago : the prints were leaning always on the same side using dual extrusion. I had to upgrade the firmware to Marlin 1.1 RC8. Now the stable version Marlin 1.1 had been released so I'll go for it in your case. I've made a post in this forum's section for the new firmware upgrade Hope it helps David
  15. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I have installed a Bondtech extruder on my XT and I am very happy so far. It has reduced grinding to nothing. No grinding. I can press print and know it will work. Installation is easy and Martin at Bondtech is very helpful. He has designed a mount for the XT that is available with the extruder or you can print your own. I will post some more pics and vids soon so you can see more. Cheers, Nick
  16. 1 point
    Hi to all Due to some bugs in the source code available on NickP's posts when using Simplify 3D and dual extrusion, I had to upgrade the Firmware. So I have upgraded to a stock Marlin 1.1.0 - RC8 firmware, making configuration in only 3 files. First you need to setup an Arduino environment and have implemented the right libraries ( U8glib.h), see this tutorial https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/firmware-flashing-guide.708/ In the IDE configuration you need to specify in Tools section Board : Arduino / Genuino Mega or Mega 2560Processor : AT Mega 2560Port : Your usb port where your printer is attachedSecond you need the source code from Marlin github :1.1.0-RC8.zip . Please read carefully the release notes as it is not an official stable release yet, but last but one release candidate. Third you need the right configuration files (configuration.h, configuration.adv.h, pins_RUMBA.h) and replace the downloaded ones. I have attached mine, but as I have an highly modified printer (Bondtech Extruders, E3D V6 hotends, 400 steps/rev steppers motors, GT2 belts and pulleys), many parameters have been adjusted. I will try to provide the list of changes that should be done to adapt to a standard Full-scale XT Plus (or XT) using your own values. (refer to older source code versions in NickP post for the OEM values) All the changes from the stock source code have been commented by //DVDW File pins_RUMBA.h No changes except if you have implemented more hardware File configuration.adv.h No changes except if you want to tweak features like lcd screen or thermal protection File configuration.h It is the main configuration file. You have to take your own values from your configuration.h file in NickP post version. Some changes made are linked to the hardware of the stock machine and don't need to be changed. Here's the list of points you need to review and apply your own changes : #define HOTEND_OFFSET_X and #define HOTEND_OFFSET_Y : offset between your 2 hotends, need to be set accordingly to your HW. If you use Cura / Mankati UM, uncomment these lines, you can set them using M218 in your starting script if you use a different slicer.#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 : if you are using the standard 100k thermistor from Mankati, should be set to 1#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 : if you are using the standard 100k thermistor from Mankati, should be set to 1#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP and #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP and #define BED_MAXTEMP : refer to your own values#define DEFAULT_Kp, #define DEFAULT_Ki, #define DEFAULT_Kd : refer to your own values or best make a PID from your host and report the actual values#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT : refer to your own values. Should be something like {78.74,78.74,800,600} or best do the calibration !section Preheat Constants : use your own valuesIf you want to make your calibration (PID, X steps, Ysteps, Zsteps and E steps per extruder), there are many useful tutos on reprap forums or Tom's Guide on youtube. I recommend doing it to improve the print quality. Please remember doing the upgrade is at your own risk and you need to be sure you have the Arduino environnement properly set up and use the right parameters. Worst case you can brick your printer ! I've posted my upgrade procedure and some information to let you do the same. It is working fine for me but I wouldn't be liable for any problems you'll get into. This upgrade provides me many improvements : print quality, bug fixes, better bed leveling options and convenient homing procedure. I may implement additional features : auto bed leveling (awaiting my probe to install it on a new redesigned turbo fan shroud) and maybe the linear advance feature to improve the ooze control. It is now a standard implementation from Marlin open source code (only the 3 configuration files needs to be tweaked) and will allow me to upgrade to the latest Marlin version. The menus are a bit different, with more options, but still close to the original ones. Good news is I'm not anymore dependent on Mankati support. David Configuration_adv.h Configuration.h pins_RUMBA.h
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Hi After reinstalling the software this issue is now resolved, looks like with the initial install not all materials loaded properly in the profiles dropdown. The files are now saving correctly.
  19. 1 point
    Hi James No problem, I've solved it in between. and Cura version 2.3 is working on dual extrusion for my Mankati. It is a bit of .json tweaking, but quite easy. Attached my files, but you need to check the starting script in the machine definition, as everybody has its own way of doing it. You also need to change the hotends offsets as my printer is modified with E3D V6. It's in the mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json file Then you have to copy the mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual.def.json file in the ressources/definitions part of Cura 2.3 Then you have to copy the mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_1st.def.json and mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json files in the ressources/extruders part of Cura 2.3 Then you can create your machine inside Cura. Hope it helps. David mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual.def.json mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_1st.def.json mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json
  20. 1 point
    Hello (大家好), This is for anyone who would like to modify the firmware in PLUS. File: Marlin for Fullscale XT Plus.zip Best regards M- Shanghai
  21. 1 point
    BTW, if you are located anywhere in Europe and you would indeed decide to get rid of the Mankati, just drop me a note. I might be interested in a third Mankati printer. I have two now since one month and both have been printing a lot on a daily basis. Second one is doing 16 hours per day, my first and old XT model has been doing 9.5 hours daily over a 15 month period so you might say I am quite busy with them.
  22. 1 point
    Hi Kristian, I do not think your problem is the same as mine. The problem I HAD was with the Fullscale XT model, not with the XT PLUS model which is what you have. What I finally did was lubricate the PTFE tube with some oil and kept trying to get the tube loose. After a while this worked. I pushed the PTFE tube through until I got a clean part where the material is still white. I cut it off there with a sharp knife and then put the PEEKS etc. back in place. On the Fullscale XT the PTFE tube runs all the way down INTO the nozzles. Actually, in my opinion, the PTFE tube should literally TOUCH the nozzle so there is basically no space between the nozzle and the tube so the filament cannot escape. Since this action, my XT has been printing with PLA and other materials almost 15 hours PER DAY for almost a month now and I have not had any problems since. As for the XT Plus model, which is my second Mankati printer, this has a different hotend. This DOES gave me a lot of problems with underextrusion, clicking extruders and failed prints. Especially with PLA I would have problems in as little as one hour sometimes, but not with all brands of filament. The original Mankati filament would print fine just like PETG. But other prints would fail repeatedly. My first idea was the print temperature was too low. But now I know it has to do with a combination of TOO MUCH retraction. I was using the same settings as on my XT model where I use 8-10 mm. On the XT Plus, this should be much lower, more like 2-4 mm maximum. I also LOWERED the print temperature from 220 to 215. And I placed the hotend fan just a bit lower and turned it more foreward. And last thing I did was that I unscrewed the Bowden tube from the hotend (which is easy on the XT Plus) and dropped in a few drops of olive oil in there. PLA is a corn/starch-based filament.If you line the wall of the hotend, the PLA will not stick, just like meat or eggs in a frying pan. Since then, I have had only ONE instance of failed PLA prints due to filament getting stuck in my printer.
  23. 1 point
    Well. problem seems to be solved now I contacted Mankati support and received an answer from Savans the same day. He suggested to check all the bolts on the cables and pulley's. I found the small bolts on the sliding block a little loose and tightened them all. Now the walls seem to be straight again.
  24. 1 point
    Hi all! I'm Sam from Thailand. I've owned my XT Plus for almost a year now. I've been observing the forums for a while since the old one and got many useful information from the community. This time I'm sharing some of my own. The story: One day while printing ABS one of my hotend fan got loose and popped off then got melted from the heat of the extruder. So I decided to redesign the whole package because my turbo fan also looks beaten up. 1. Cooling fan - I redesigned so both left and right fans share the same body, this way it will never fall off again. Also a 45 degree airflow angle improves airflow (in my common sense opinion) compared to the stock blowing into each other. Although my design is a little difficult to attach and remove compared to stock. There is no difficulty using the wrench to remove the nozzles. [print with support] L&R Fan.STL 2. Turbo fan - This one is designed so more airflow is allowed to pass through overall, in a circular manner around the extruder. Since the stock ones give less efficiency (again in my common sense) because putting my hand on the intake I could feel a lot of air rebound which means the output holes are too small compared to the fan's power. I also placed fins which will hopefully divide the air so the airflow is spread around equally, not only focusing in the center. Its also a support-less design! [print without support ] turbo fan mod.STL 3. Knobby - This is something extra and one of the best improvements to the machine hahaha. I name it knobby, it replaces the annoying stock screws with a knob that allows you to open and close the printers doors with ease. Turning it locks the door securely and also reduces all the annoying screw noise... There are 2 parts - assemble them using stock screws knoby.STL knoby end.STL And thats all for some of my little mods comments welcome!
  25. 1 point
    I personally hadn´t any clogging problems up to now but - by the way - the original mankati filament is definitely not the best on the market. My main issue so far was the extruders of the printer with a constant rate of either under- or overextrusion - no matter which type or quality of the used filament. Slipping of the filament or - in the worst case - massive abrasion of filament within the extruder were my daily "pleasure". Changing the coil pressure, the wheel and the motor didn´t solve the problem that in the end I changed both to Bondtech QR ones. Since then I´m printing jobs up to almost 1 kg Filament over 72 hours and more - both with 0,4 and 0,3 nozzles and PLA. Beside some necessary fine tuning on the E-steps they´ve been running w/o any minor oder major problems.
  26. 1 point
    Thank you for sharing your modes. It seems they are well thought out. What is your experience with the filament feeding? Just these two last days, I have had bit time trouble once more with slipping filament. This was on PLA prints that take about 7-15 hours each. After each print, I clean the serrated wheel, but the filaments still slips at times. Very annoying
  27. 1 point
    Hi Ivan, I print a lot for customers, so it is not only for private work. But I do enjoy that. About the Mankati, yes it can be improved. As Rexfreund already mentioned. - Thicker guide rails for the printhead - Flatter printbed (I have been told by Mankati support that current printbeds are ´flatter´ than the original ones. My current printbed is indeed less curved than the one the printer came with. - Better filament feeder - A higher temp printhead (the XT Plus can reach higher temps), but 400 C would be better still
  28. 1 point
    Hi Ivan, Like Rexfreund I have had my problems with the Mankati Fullscale XT (I don't have the XT Plus model but the earlier XT model). In 317 days I have used the printer for 2476 hours! That is an AVERAGE of 7.8 HOURS of printing PER DAY. I have printed all kinds of materials. Mostly PLA, some ABS (which I don't like), PETG, Nylon, Wood, Bronzefill, Aluminum(fill), Carbonfill, HDGlass, XT and Flexifill, I can say that all in all, I am certainly not 100% happy with the Mankati, but I am not sure if any other printed would have done better. I have replace my printbed twice now (it broke), I had to replace some screws in the axis that got lost. I have cleaned the nozzles several times, as well as the Bowden tubes. The Mankati could certainly be a better printer, but I have not met anyone yet who has printed a lot with any kind of printer and never had problems.
  29. 1 point
    Hey Michael, I used Simplify3D as slicer, set the temp at 205, heated bed 55 and speed at 15 mm/s and started printing. So nothing fancy actually.
  30. 1 point
    to all thaks a lot to the replies - highly appreciate them - just a few answers 1. I'm from Switzerland (Aargau) but work in Zürich to Seadog 2. the rulers are getting black due to the fact that the chrome is poor quality - black oil can be wiped away 3. the uneven plate - it is NOT caused by the four screws - I measured the plate on my 3D drill with a micrometer (so without screws) and the plate if wavy for about 0.3mm if you got 0.4mm Nozzle that is to much ! 4. the clogging is caused by the hotend which is quite unstable in the temperature - seems that the vent at the background is cooling to much and the measurement of the temperature is not correct enough. 5. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong E3D Hotend - but the Heatsink of the Mankati fitted to the Heatsink of the e3d - that was real easy just one general remark here : I personally think that the Mankati is a reasonable machine with a lot room for improvement - for 2000 USD I personally expect a bit more engineering - special if you buy it directly in China.
  31. 1 point
    The wife has always drawn stick figure imagery (hand drawn and digital) for me for special occasions, wishing me a good day, etc. She does a really good job of expressing emotion in 2D. I thought I would pay tribute to her love of the stick figure and 3D print her a 2016 Valentine 'Card'. Me giving her My Heart... I bought my printer to have fun with and I'm actually doing it !!!
  32. 1 point
    Once again I was having problems with getting my prints right. I needed to print some parts but for some reasons, the layers were not complete, with irregularities and openings in them and a very rough surface. At the same time, I was hearing the dreaded clicking noise from the filament feederwheel, Since I had just bought a new roll of filament, I was suspecting at first it to be a difference in the material, but trying different settings did not solve the problem. I took out the nozzle and clean the inside with a drill bit and also cleaned the feeder wheel from the filament motor, but again, it made no difference. Then I did the following. I unscrewed the feeding teflon tube from the motor and unscrewed the print nozzle. Then I pushed a 3mm threaded soft metal wire through the tube and found it to be stuck near or inside the print head, even though the filament had come out fine with the blob at the tip, suggesting that nothing had been left. Still, I could not push the wire completely through. Some filament material was obviously still blocking the Teflon tube. Then I took my Dremel tool and a small drill and carefully pushed in up into the Teflon tube vertically. After about 1 cm it struck the blob that was left there and I drilled right through. After that, I could easily push the 3mm wire through so it extended from the PEEK. Move it up and down until it was not meeting any resistance any more. Then I remove the wire, screwed everything back in place, fed the (same) filament again, heated up the printer and started, fed a bit of filament through the printhead and started printing. From that moment on, the printer was printing fine again, with all layers as they should be. So, from this I have learned, that even if you have removed your filament and cleaned your nozzle, there still can be some obstruction left in the Teflon tube somewhat higher up.
  33. 1 point
    This sounds like a problem I had with printing with ABS some time ago. Now, I am using 3D Lac with good results. It is a kind of glue spray that get the more sticky the higher the printbed temperature. Then, when it cools down the stickiness is reduced and I can simply lift the print from the bed with no issues. It also gives a super smooth underside which I like as well..
  34. 1 point
    You could try Elmers Glue Stick, here in Aussie land Officeworks stock it. It is purple and washable meaning the residue can be cleaned off the bed with warm water...no scraping
  35. 1 point
    Hi TonyR, I feel your pain - I have had quite a few of these in my time as well. I apply the glue stick directly to my print bed - either glass or now aluminum - no tape or other material applied. The glue stick is form a cheap Japanese product shop - these have cropped up recently in the area I live in. I am in Australia - but I think the key thing is the contents are PVP (the glue stick is a triangle shape if that helps but it has no brand that I can read anyway) which seem to be the key ingredient. The glue is applied in about four layers in different directions when the bed is warm - about 65oC. I would also suggest to think about printing with a raft or brim - these will extend past the size of the print on the x an y and will give bigger surface area to adhere to the bed. And if anything lets go it is usually just the corner of the brim/raft and not the part it self. When I used to use ABS juice one trick I employed many times was if I saw a corner start to lift I would quickly glue it back down to the bed with a dab of ABS Juice to the corner and push the corner back down to glue it back to the bed. - Saved a lot of problems. A couple of other things to check - the first layer is critical - it needs to look and feel like a half squashed cylinder - think the inside of a toilet paper roll squashed to about half the diameter. When the first layer is going down - run your finger over it and if it feels like it is round on the top it is too high you can either adjust the bed physically or via the slicer you are using. The print bed should be as up around 85 minimum - mine runs at 95oC - if the printer is enclosed make sure it is covered as much as possible and away from breeze, even running air con in the room can ruin a print. The picture looks like the part on top of the thin plate came away from the bottom and it's all just crazy string from there. This would have happened once the thin plat starts to lift and the layer on top is no longer in contact with the layer below it. Hope some of this helps. cheers
  36. 1 point
    Yea, I hear you. Same story here exactly. Almost word for word. Not overly thrilled to see people swapping parts out like the extruders on something that is brand new. I'll try that thermal paste idea first and see how i go.
  37. 1 point
    This same problem was driving me mad. The solution that completely fixed it for me was applying some thermal paste to the threads on the stainless fitting, where it screws into the heatsink. The issue stems from heat creeping up the stainless steel fitting the nozzle screws onto. With the standard assembly there is a poor thermal connection between the heatsinks and threaded fitting, so heat isn't removed very efficiently and it can creep up over long prints. The thermal paste improves the conductivity and wicks the heat away much better.
  38. 1 point
    XT PLUS Cooling Fan Part 1 - 3 feet yellow turbo fan case(20150324).STL XT PLUS Cooling Fan Part 2- blue fan holder.STL XT Cooling Fan - XT fan guide.STL
  39. 1 point
    Hi Darqueone I reported the same Problems some Weeks ago to Mankati. My Solution for it is to change the Hotend Fans to some that sits in Front. The two Originalfans are blowing against each other and Heat can't escape from the Finns, resulting in getting melted PLA into the Coldpart. I now use a Volcano Hotend which prints faster and stronger. For this, the Nozzlefans need also to be replaced. The PTFE Tubing inside the Hotend may also cause Problems, when they move up and form a Gap between the Heatbreak and the Tubing. I hpe, this helps You a little bit. Greets Christian FANS.stl
  40. 1 point
    Hi Nick, Here are the pic's you are looking for. Mongrel.
  41. 1 point
    Hi Nick, I am not certain an ultrasonic cleaner will work well on the plastic, not immediately any who. I haven't had much luck with ultrasonic cleaning when throwing a nozzle, heat block or heat break covered in plastic. However, I have had great results from incinerating the plastic/part first to remove the majority of material, using a micro drill to clear the nozzle orifice, then placing in an ultrasonic cleaner and finally hand polishing (internal surfaces) using this type of tool http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rotary-Tools-3mm-Cylinder-Head-Felt-Bobs-3mm-Polisher-Shank-12pcs-/252116562237?hash=item3ab351713d:g:G7UAAOSwKIpWFV4N and some Autosol micro-abrasion metal polish. Works wonders, especially within the stainless steel heat break. I haven't seen any degradation of the brass nozzle, aluminium heater block or stainless heat break from ultrasonic cleaning yet. I don't do it for long on each part, though I'd be interested to hear more on that (my) notion. Kind regards, James Armstrong.
  42. 1 point
    Hi Nick, Just installed as is. I did correct the 'Esteps' value (under the CONTROL/MOTION heading) to adjust the feedrate but apart from that - nothing else. In view of some of the previous comments regarding 'blocks' there is one thing one has to be careful of with Bondtech extruders-THEY EXERT A POWERFUL PUSH and they DO NOT 'GRIND'. This can mean that if there is any restriction at the nozzle end - say, if there is an actual obstruction or the nozzle is too close to the bed or if the feed rate is too high THE EXTRUDER WILL JUST KEEP PUSHING AWAY - COMPRESSING THE FILAMENT in the feed tube so that filament flow will gradually die. This would probably be accompanied by some clicking at the extruder thereby providing a warning that something is wrong. As an example of the strength of the thrust exerted I had a situation on an overnight print where a mal feed did occur and on checking next morning found that filament was deformed all the way up to the bowden tube connection! That is the 'bad' news, the good news is that with the setting correct everything works BEAUTIFULLY, no worrying about how much pressure to put on those pesky springs or having to keep the teeth clear of filament residue etc I am happy with my purchase cheers Seadog.
  43. 1 point
    Let you know how I go. This type of process makes available shapes that would be impractical by normal means. I am just sorry that I was born 20 or 30 years too early!!
  44. 1 point
    Hello James Hotend Jamming Problems and a possible Cause: Inside the Hotends are PTFE Tubings with 3.5mm ID/4.5mm OD. These are for Guidance of the Filament and should be touching the Heatbreaks. If You feel 2 Resistances within a few Millimeters when feeding Filament into the Hotend, You may have a Gap between the PTFE and the Heatbreak. Dont print at this Time, You risk Jamming! Please check and correct the Tubings so that they touches the Heatbreaks. You prevent Jamming doing so. In the meantime, my Tubings where deformed and damaged and I have to replace them both. In the Gap there will will cool down Filament with a lower Meltingtemperature an then jam yout Hotend. It's impossible to pull back the Filament without damaging the PTFE Guidance Tube! And it's impossible to push it because the Filament does not get hot enough.
  45. 1 point
    Hello 3dbelanger, I too was experiencing with difficulties with PLA but have some thoughts on the issue. I have Bondtech extruders fitted and, as widely reported, they eliminate the 'grinding' problem but it can be replaced by another mode of failure although one that can be corrected more readily than with the old type of extruder. Whereas with the old extruders which will 'grind out' if there is a jam at the nozzle and bring filament feeding to a halt, the Bondtech extruder, with its' very powerful thrust will keep pushing ! If PLA is being used as a support structure, for instance, and it is being heated in its' nozzle waiting its' turn, for extended periods, the combined effect of the constant pressure and softening of filament further up the column will cause the PLA to fill the delivery tube for some distance so that the friction generated in the tube will prevent proper delivery and eventually can cause failure. As a testament to the power of the Bondtech this happened to me while the machine ran overnight to the extent that the filament was jammed and deformed all the way up to the connector at the end of the bowden tube! On thing I did to achieve success was to increase retraction distance which apparently removed the waiting filament away from the intense heat. PLA is fairly easy to print, particularly if used solo but it is a matter of balance between delivery rate and temperature. James Armstrong has covered the subject fairly thoroughly elsewhere so I would recommend reading his piece. In the case just referred to printing the ABS slowly at 245º (which worked) and PLA at 205º (which gradually failed) I achieved a successful print when I increased PLA temp to 215º (with increased retraction). As James wrote it is a question of balance. And by the way has anyone ACCURATELY measured the temperatures of the heated components and compared them with what is reported. With my device I see a wide range of difference, particularly over the bed. However, regardless of whether the reported temps are accurate or not it is really a matter of what works in a particular case. It is all a juggling act! bye All
  46. 1 point
    Hi Noddy, Here is the download link of PLUS user manual. http://www.mankati.com/download/ Regards Qing
  47. 1 point
    Hi All, now its time to show you my new and great Bondtech Extruders ! To handle the filament load and unload, i have written this short programms. Chears Klaus Filament1laden.gcode Filament1leeren.gcode
  48. 1 point
    All thanks. This message is for Russian-speaking owners printer.Основное отличие XT Plus это e3d V6 hotends(я буду называть просто “голова”), замена вызывает много страха, но не все так сложно и страшно. Может это маленькое руководство позволит обновить кому-то свой принтер. Обновление проходит в три этапа. Этап первый “Голова”. Нам понадобиться только один инструмент: отвертка крестовая. Начинаем с четырех болтов, которые удерживают стол, отсоединяем провода нагревателя и датчик температуры. Отворачиваем заднюю стенку(4 болта), вытаскиваем панель и нашему взору открывается массивная ось Z, два шаговых двигателя и прочая требуха. Откручиваем два верхних шаговых движка оси Х и Y, конструкция немного ослабнет. Приступаем к самому интересному. Остались четыре штанги, на концах которых фланцевые подшипники с шайбами(будьте бдительны, на одной стороне было 5 шайб, не потеряйте их), концы с проточками упираются в пластмассовый крепеж с защелками. Крепеж удерживается двумя болтами с гайками. На левой и правой стороне две кнопки остановки по X и Y (определяющие начальную точку) откручиваем их. Теперь убираем все гайки с пластмассовых креплений, болты пока не достаем, иначе вся конструкция может упасть или на изгибе конструкции можно сломать крепежи. Для фиксации конструкции, существуют специальные зажимы (удобная вещь наверное, но я ей не воспользовался , лень обуяла), привязал веревочками конструкцию к ручкам. Снимаем болты, шевелим и конструкция повисает в воздухе на веревках. Ослабляем веревочки одной стороны, на площадку принтера начинают падать шайбы, крепления, главное подмечать, что откуда упало. Развинчиваем винт прижимного ремня, который удерживает направляющую, вынимаем штангу из разъема, отодвигаем ремень в сторону, снимаем голову с одной из осей (можно ослабить все болты для направляющих и вытащить крестовину с головой свободно, но потом сложно настраивать оси). Процедуру повторяем для другой направляющей и в обратном порядке устанавливаем новую голову, старую можно отложить в сторону. После этого начинается утомительный обратный путь сборки, самым отвратительным будет не выставление ремней, ровности направляющих или чего-то еще, а попадания гайки в болт, в двух местах это будет ОЧЕНЬ сложно. Этап второй “Провода”. Инструмент: отвертка крестовая, отвертка плоская тонкая. Распечатанные детали для двух малых вентиляторов и “турбо” вентилятора(нагнетатель). Собрав голову, старую откладываем в сторонку. Поворачиваем принтер на “бочек”, развинчиваем нижнюю панель(6 болтов), видим зеленую плату, блок питания и кучу проводов. Отсоединяем следующие провода (для удобства соскабливания термоклея лучше использовать скальпель или что то острое): Датчик температуры левый (значение на плате T1), датчик температуры правый (значение на плате Т2), нагревательный элемент левый (значение на плате HE1), нагревательный элемент правый (значение на плате HE2), вентилятор левый (значение на плате FAN1), вентилятор правый (значение на плате FAN2). Вытаскиваем шлейф проводов, отсоединяем необходимое от старой “головы”, подключаем все необходимое к новой(ошибиться там сложно), заматываем в черную оплетку и подключаем согласно схемы описанной выше. В новой голове появляется “турбо” вентилятор(нагнетатель) его подключаем на плате в разъем с подписью HE3 (незабываем соблюдать полярность). Этап третий “Софт. Тут все просто, ставим программу Mankati 6.5.х устанавливаем драйвера для принтера. Подключаем USB провод к принтеру и компьютеру, запускаем программу Mankati. Устанавливаем прошивку 5.0, для этого в верхней панели выбираем Принтер --- Установить другую прошивку. Появиться диалоговое окно в котором надо указать путь для прошивки, тк я ставил по “умолчанию” мой путь выглядит C:\Program Files (x86)\MankatiUM_6.5.0\resources\firmware выбираем файл Fullscale XT Plus V5.0.hex. После нажатия клавиши “Ок” появиться меню поиска принтера, затем полоса загрузки и уведомления об успешной прошивке. После этого принтер перезапустится с новой прошивкой. Теперь если все правильно наслаждаемся новым принтером. “Турбо” вентилятор(нагнетатель) включается при печати(если стоит галочка в расширенных настройках вкл охлаждающий вентилятор) или принудительно из меню управления температурой. Не забудьте купить новые трубки или дополнительные болты, а то придется выдумывать всякий ужас )
  49. 1 point
    Thanks for the fast reply... I spoke to a lot of mankati users. In general, the XT users are very happy, the XT plus users all have the same problem. Maybe i will try the Bondtech extruder, but on the other hand, i am not happy with buying a "high end" printer with a need to use other components to get it run smooth.
  50. 1 point
    This is another thing I printed with Mankati XT Plus. It's about 800 mm by width, still took several times printing to finish. The last photo was PSed. But I am not sure if 3d printing material can make a plane that really flys. I like big models, but even the XT Plus can't finish some models one off. I'm wondering if there is any bigger printer??? but don't want too expensive.
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