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  1. 1 point
    Hi Fiteeket, No problem. Yes, replacing the tube on the XT is a bit of a fuss because the clips by which it is secured to the (red) guide block are a bit difficult to remove. Or perhaps I simply did it the wronig way. Also, the tube swells a bit after long use and will be very tight in the PEEK, so that is hard to remove. The XT Plus is much more simple, because you can simply unscrew the Bowden tube from the guide block. I often do this if the nozzle gets clogged, just to push a bit of filament through to see if I can clear it that way (often helps) or to just put a few drops of sunflower oil in it. The oil seems to reduce the tendency to clog. In total, my XT has had twice the printing hours of the XT Plus. That said, on the XT I never got printing with ABS correct so I simply don't use ABS on the XT. With the XT Plus, printing ABS actually works very well. I am not sure why this is, but on the XT, my ABS layers never seem to be as strong as they should be. I really don't level the bed very much. I use 3D Lac spray to simply put a thin cover on the glass bed and that sticks very well. Except for Nylon that is, but I don't used that much any more. On the XT Plus, I need to replace the cooling fan again because on of the wires got lose. I really want to design a new fan holder for the print cooling fan. The original model always gets damaged after a while. At the moment it works. I have a E3D V6 Hotend with all the works, but I haven't had the time to install it yet. Actually, at the moment, I don't get that many clogged nozzles any more. I have no experience with the Bondtech extruders. About a year ago, I was really thinking about getting one (on the XT), but after getting my Bowden tube problem solved, I don't seem to need it anymore. My basic procedure for a print is simple. 1) Heat the printer and bed to the right temperature 2) While doing that, I wipe the printbed with a slightly damp cloth and then spray a bit of 3D Lac on it in the area where I am going to print. 3) Extrude about 15-30 mm of filament from the nozzle after heating it up. The way the filament will flow usually tells me already if I have a clogging problem. Also, I usually need to do this after switching filament type and/or color to get the last remains out of the nozzle 4) Start the print. 5) Watch the way the first layer is laid down. If it doesn't go right, I immediately stop the print, lower the bed, clean it and start again.
  2. 1 point
    Hi Fiteeket, Long post but with a familiar problem I have both a Mankati XT (my first 3D Printer) as well as the XT Plus (second printer). I basically used them every day for print. The XT has been used for about 6700 hours now, the XT Plus for 3380 hours. Both are busy printing as we speak. I have had problems with both printers because of clogged nozzles. With the XT, when the printer is having issues with extrusion, it is either the nozzle being blockedd OR the last part of the Bowden tube that extends into the nozzle has some filament residue stacking up inside. If you have printed for a long time and you remove the nozzle, you will notice that the end of the Bowden tube has become brown and or has even deformed. The first thing you can do is use a 2.5 or 3mm drill bit and simply drill out any remaining and stuck filament in the tube. I sometimes push a 3mm iron wire through the whole Bowden to push out any remaing stuff. This will work for some time but after having done this several times, you will have damaged the inside of the tube and the problems will reappear. Second thing you can do is to remove the PEEK block, loosen the tube and push it through 1-2 cm and cut if off again at a point where it is nice and clean again. Make sure you cut it off straight because otherwise you will be oozing filament out of strange places. This is a bit of work and you will have to fiddle a bit for the first time. Just make sure you do not bend the guide rods of course because that would ruin your printer. You can also buy a new Bowden tube and replace the whole tube. I have done this on March 26th this year and the printer has been running another 1150 hours since. To be honest, I do get failed prints sometimes because the nozzle can still get clogged. Usually this happens after switching different types of filament
  3. 1 point
    The Heatsink-Fans start spinning when 40°C are reached... The Turbo-Fan is only used for delicate Filament like PLA (or even for PETG), which needs cooling when printing... It's that easy. ABS does not need the Turbo-Fan. It can disconnect the Part from the Bed when using the Turbo-Fan on ABS...
  4. 1 point
    Hello,please let me introduce you a DIY filament drying box. Maybe, some of you are still bothered with the problem that nylon material is very easy to become damp. Today, I want to share an easy way to make a drying box with you.Annex is the production process of graphic introduction, you can refer to it. 1.Essential materials and instruments: air-tight storage box(7*24*20cm,volume 1L), rapid connector, 2 pairs of nuts and bolts, drying agent, filament stand, hygrometer, tube connector, pistol drill, glue gun. 2.Drill on the opposite side of the handler 3.Using nuts and bolts to fix the tube connector at the right positio 4.Screw the rapid connector tightly into the tube connector, and stick in a tube 5.Using the glue gun to seal this connecting part airtight 6.Attach the hygrometer onto the inner surface of the drying box using a dual adhesive tape 7.Done 8.Working PS. The tube connector and filament stand need to be 3D printed.
  5. 1 point
    Hi Leeman, It looks like you are having a similar problem I have had once last year. It was caused by one of the belt pulleywheels attached to the rotating rods that was slipping. In my case, I had to replace one of those very tiny screws because I could not tighten it strongly enough to keep it from slipping on the axis. Let me know if it works.
  6. 1 point
    Hi The firmware upgrade post aThe auto bed leveling post All the requirements are in the post. Good luck for all the mods David
  7. 1 point
    Hi guys, Of course,you can use normal PC UPS,but the power type have some requirement (output DC 24V,15A).
  8. 1 point
    Hi Leeman Looks like the issue I've experienced some months ago : the prints were leaning always on the same side using dual extrusion. I had to upgrade the firmware to Marlin 1.1 RC8. Now the stable version Marlin 1.1 had been released so I'll go for it in your case. I've made a post in this forum's section for the new firmware upgrade Hope it helps David
  9. 1 point
    Hi James No problem, I've solved it in between. and Cura version 2.3 is working on dual extrusion for my Mankati. It is a bit of .json tweaking, but quite easy. Attached my files, but you need to check the starting script in the machine definition, as everybody has its own way of doing it. You also need to change the hotends offsets as my printer is modified with E3D V6. It's in the mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json file Then you have to copy the mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual.def.json file in the ressources/definitions part of Cura 2.3 Then you have to copy the mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_1st.def.json and mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json files in the ressources/extruders part of Cura 2.3 Then you can create your machine inside Cura. Hope it helps. David mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual.def.json mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_1st.def.json mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json
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