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Kristian BR

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About Kristian BR

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  1. How to remove the Bowden tube

    @mvm So you haven't replaced the extruders with Bondtech extruders? It seems like others in this forum has done that in order to solve the problem with underextrusion, clicking etc.
  2. Dreaded Clicking Noise

    I guess this shows what's going on!
  3. Dreaded Clicking Noise

    Got the same problem for some time now. Changed hotends, PTFE tube etc. on my Mankati XT plus, but it's still jamming. It's REALLY anoying!!!!! After I read several threads of this topic, I'm getting even more frustrated, because what are the solution?: 1) Bying Bondtech extruders (which seems to be complicated because of the GCODE you need to change).... 2) Printing and mounting new holder for cooling fans (Dipicorg) (Difficult to print when the printer's not printing very well) What does the Mankati people say to this?
  4. How to remove the Bowden tube

    I have the excact same problem and it's really anoying. I am about to return the printer for that reason.....
  5. Print bed shifting by 10mm

    I just had the same problem as described. In my case the problem was the bottom of the .stl-model: It wasn't solid, but a surface, so when I looked in the sliced part, the first 13 layers wasn't there. And it was not able to create the "raft".... When I changed the model to solid all over, there was no problem printing it....
  6. Warping problems and solutions

    Clapton... He's a great singer!!!
  7. DSC-0803.JPG

  8. Kronborg castle

  9. Pumping station

  10. Concrete block, dual colour

  11. I had a big problem with warping mainly on models with a large ground area (I use a kind of capton tape that doesn't stick on both sides). At Youtube i found the solution to the problem: Use a glue-stick (non-toxic) which you can buy almost anywhere, and glue the area on the heated bed. It works very well and doesn't cost anything.
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