Jump to content

David

Members
  • Content count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

David last won the day on June 7 2017

David had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About David

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. Unstable temperatures

    HI Toliyk My Mankati is running fine for now 3 months with a Duet3D Ethernet board instead of the stock one. It is a 32bit board running with ReprapFirmware instead of Marlin. It is now connected over Ethernet and I can manage the printer from a web interface. It has Trinamic stepper drivers: no more noise, 256 micro stepping interpolation and I took the option of PT100 thermistors which are much more accurate. I recommend ! There is a Wifi version of the board also. A bit expensive, but now the printer is quiet. Best David
  2. Unstable temperatures

    Hi I have finished installing the new board and screen with a brand new wiring. My Mankati is now powered by a Duet 3D Ethernet. All the tuning has been done. It's pretty easy coming from Marlin, but still tedious. I'm now printing some parts to finalize the assembly of the case's fan. The print quality has improved due to the new drivers with 256x interpolation, but the main points are : nearly silent prints (covered by my PSU fans) connected printer, so I can managed it and upload file directly from my computer. touchscreen with direct access to all the functions. yet to come, a IP camera to follow the print when away, using the same interface as the printer web control. So now, the only part left from the original Mankati is the chassis and the printed including its bearings and lead screw. I hope they will last a bit more longer than the other parts. Given that, I'll be less present on the forum. Best David
  3. Unstable temperatures

    Hi Some update about this issue. I've received my Duet Ethernet board with a 5'' color touchscreen + PT 100 board and thermistors. I have to implement a 24V DC - 12V DC converter to keep my fans, led and probe. I am also implementing a SSR (Crydom D1D40) for the bed, even if the board can manage 15A current, I don't want to overload it. I have to do lots of wiring as the board is much more smaller and terminals layout is different with Molex connectors. I will take the opportunity to use shielded wires for the steppers, thermistors and heaters to reduce EMI, as PT100 are somehow sensitive to that. I will also put Molex micro fit 3.0 connectors close to the printhead for fans, heater cartridges and thermistor, to avoid any future rewiring when exchanging one of these parts. Lots of work for the next two days... I'll keep you updated with some pics. David
  4. Hi MVM Are you sure of your retraction settings ? I know I'm using a E3D V6, which is full metal so I need to limit the retraction, but with 5 mm @ 40mm/s i've got no oozing at all with ABS. I'm printing ABS @260°C as it's a different grade, but it worked smoothly with different colors of filament. ABS produces less oozing that PLA or XT. If your retraction is set too high even with the ptfe lining of your stock XT Plus printhead, you may create a buildup of semi molten abs quite high in the heat break and when it gets too high, you clog the nozzle. BTW : I sent you a PM as I have a big issue with my printer, so getting rid of the Mankati board for a Duet3D. So have a look at your mailbox on this forum David
  5. uninterrupted power supply

    Hi Abhi I use an UPS from Eaton, it's a 5P1550i with a 1550 VA capacity. I'll be able to plug a second printer on it as the power consumption is about 400 to 500 VA when fully loaded. I've got it for nearly a year without any issues. The autonomy is limited to 15 min with only my Mankati on it, but it's mainly used to ensure a good quality of the mains against micro cuts and irregular voltage. David
  6. Layers Shifting

    Hi Leeman Seems the issue is a software / firmware problem. Are you still using Marlin 1.0.x or "official" Mankati Firmwares ? If yes, I do recommend to upgrade to an open source Marlin 1.1 with the appropriate configuration. I have a post in this section of the forum on how to upgrade. Which hot end are you using ? Right one ? Have you tried with another slicer than Cura ? I had issues with Simplify 3D because the offset was done by an older version of Marlin with round off errors. David
  7. auto bed leveling

    Hi The firmware upgrade post aThe auto bed leveling post All the requirements are in the post. Good luck for all the mods David
  8. pause and resume prints

    Hi Regarding the offset, the best thing is to upgrade to Marlin 1.1. See my post on the New Firmware, it solves the issue. Regarding the oozing, normally during a pause, you can move the head out of the part and move the extruder using the command panel. So you can purge the nozzle safely and prime it. Then resume the print with the primed nozzle. David
  9. Unstable temperatures

    Hi I had the feedback from Mankati Support, my board is faulty and needs replacing. Based on their feedback it seems that my board is discontinued, so they kindly offer me to ship me an used board. I'll have to pay for the shipping. So I will upgrade (again) my printer with an up to date board as I don't want to be in the same situation in a couple of months. I'm looking at the Duet Ethernet with a full color touchscreen at the moment. David
  10. auto bed leveling

    Hi I've done it on my full-scale XT Plus, but there is no showstopper to do it the same way on your Full-scale XT. Better use a capacitive probe. First you need to upgrade the firmware. See my post in this section. Second you need to implement the probe physically and in the firmware. I have done another post in this section David
  11. pause and resume prints

    While printing click on the encoder to go to the menu, there's a Pause Print option available, afterwards you can resume the print directly in the menu. Be careful, while paused, the steppers are disabled so the head could potentially move. Also there is a bug in the original firmware and on resume, the print may be offsetted. David
  12. Layers Shifting

    Hi Leeman Looks like the issue I've experienced some months ago : the prints were leaning always on the same side using dual extrusion. I had to upgrade the firmware to Marlin 1.1 RC8. Now the stable version Marlin 1.1 had been released so I'll go for it in your case. I've made a post in this forum's section for the new firmware upgrade Hope it helps David
  13. Mankati XT Plus and Cura

    Hi Sagnak With the original xt plus heads, the offset between the two heads is a bit different, so you'll have to change it in mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json To have the right measurement, the best is perform some test prints dual colors and adjust the value. Attached some tests files. E3D V6 are highly rated hotends, full metal so you can safely run at 280°C with the standard thermistors. The quality is improved due to the nozzles design and manufacturing. Very reliable and accurate. David Lower.stl One_Color.stl Upper.stl
  14. Unstable temperatures

    Hi Some news about this issue I have replaced my PSU with a TDK-Lambda-GWS-500-24, 500W under 24V. Quite easy to do, but I had to do some wiring as the inputs and outputs are reversed. Since things are a bit better, but I still have temperature stability issues on all temperature sensors, even after some PID autotune. I have cleaned all my contacts, checked the board for any color change or cold solder. I ran the printer without any bottom cover to allow more cooling. I have ran some tests, first with no heating at all and of course no steppers motors, then disconnecting one by one temp sensors. There is some contamination on every signal for temp sensors. Then I started heating the heaters 1 and 2 without the bed. There is some temperature oscillation, +/- 2 °C. Then I heated the bed to 55°C and the oscillations continued for the extruders and smaller but correlated oscillations on the bed temp. Increasing the bed temp to 90°C has increased the temperatures oscillations went to +/-5°C. I need to mention that I had two strange events aprox two weeks ago : - the printer stopped mid print without explanation though I’m having a UPS. - during a print, the flow rate has increased by itself from 100% to more than 200%, doing nothing. I suspect now the board to be faulty when’s hot, impacting the ADC. While preparing my temporary wiring, I had a closer look at the board. Previously I’ve had a look at the connectors and mosfets, but not on the controller. Clearly the ATMega 2650 shows signs of overheating and the ATMega16U2 too. See pics. On my previous check, I've concentrated on the connectors and missed the controllers due to insufficient lightning. After discussion with Savans, the technical support, I have created a temporary separate thermistor line for heater 1, to avoid any electro magnetic interferences. And ran another test. I have followed the below protocol for the test : Turn on the printer Printer idle, just powered on to check connectivity and stability Heater 1 @210°C no bed Heater 1 @210°C Bed @55°C Heater 1 @260°C Bed @55°C Heater 1 @260°C Bed @90°C Heater 1 & 2 @260°C Bed @90°C Heater 1 & 2 @260°C no bed Heater 1 @260°C Bed @90°C Printer turned off Even in phase 2, the temps are not stable and suffers a general interference. In phase 3 and 4 some interferences, but temperature is stable +/- 1°C. Though I don’t know in the long term, as yesterday I was not able to print PLA with these settings. Increasing the load on the board generates the instability and it’s correlated (see phases 7 & 8 screenshot) Reducing the load to only 1 heater is not getting back the printer to normal operations. Now with the last tests I can confirm that the problem is on the board, the ADC (part of the ATMega2560) is faulty, due to overheating. Maybe the previous PSU has provided too high voltage. I am awaiting a feedback from the Mankati Support to find the best option for the board replacement. David
  15. Unstable temperatures

    I forgot to mention that I've replaced the thermistor on my E3D V6 by a brand new one before getting that temperature plot. It's a cartridge type, so easy to install. It was exactly the same pattern with the previous thermistor. David
×