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David

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Everything posted by David

  1. Hi to all, It's been a while since I've posted on the forum. Lots of work to do for 3D Hubs customers. I had a slot free so I tried to print ColorFabb HT with dissolvable supports (FormFutura Atlas) for myself. To minimize the oozing, I am using a change tool script in Simplify 3D to cool the previous extruder to a waiting temp and heat the new one to the working temp. So the printer printer has to heat the main extruder to 260°C, the second one to 210°C and the bed to 90°C (I'm printing on PEI sheet). After the printer is hot, let's say 20 min, the power supply is constantly cooling, and them temps get unstable, and it's pretty difficult for the PID to compensate and hit the target temp. The whole print ends up in a mess due to unexpected oozing, degraded plastic, .... And I noticed some layer shifting, but I'm not sure the head hasn't bumped into the part. The whole thing happened twice. So I've been into some testing to realize that when loaded, even with only one single extruder @260°C, the PSU is getting hot, creating instability in the temps reading, even the non used extruder and heated bed. See screenshot. The oscillation is to fast to be linked to an hardware issue and affects every temp reading. Since the PSU is cold, no problem at all, the issue is that it's getting hot only after 15min of moderate usage. And at the moment, weather in France is getting a bit hot. I've checked the wirings, the mainboard for any short or burn mark. The board is pretty clean. BTW I already have a 40mm case fan blowing on the driver side of the board. I'm going to replace the PSU after a bit more than 1 year. I've read on reprap forum that 360W is the minimum if you have to heat the bed + extruders. So I've ordered a 500W industrial grade PSU from local suppliers (TDK-Lambda-GWS-500-24 has nearly the same size). It will need a bit of drilling and wiring to put in place, but should be easily done. Anyone had the same type of issue ? David
  2. Unstable temperatures

    HI Toliyk My Mankati is running fine for now 3 months with a Duet3D Ethernet board instead of the stock one. It is a 32bit board running with ReprapFirmware instead of Marlin. It is now connected over Ethernet and I can manage the printer from a web interface. It has Trinamic stepper drivers: no more noise, 256 micro stepping interpolation and I took the option of PT100 thermistors which are much more accurate. I recommend ! There is a Wifi version of the board also. A bit expensive, but now the printer is quiet. Best David
  3. Unstable temperatures

    Hi I have finished installing the new board and screen with a brand new wiring. My Mankati is now powered by a Duet 3D Ethernet. All the tuning has been done. It's pretty easy coming from Marlin, but still tedious. I'm now printing some parts to finalize the assembly of the case's fan. The print quality has improved due to the new drivers with 256x interpolation, but the main points are : nearly silent prints (covered by my PSU fans) connected printer, so I can managed it and upload file directly from my computer. touchscreen with direct access to all the functions. yet to come, a IP camera to follow the print when away, using the same interface as the printer web control. So now, the only part left from the original Mankati is the chassis and the printed including its bearings and lead screw. I hope they will last a bit more longer than the other parts. Given that, I'll be less present on the forum. Best David
  4. Unstable temperatures

    Hi Some update about this issue. I've received my Duet Ethernet board with a 5'' color touchscreen + PT 100 board and thermistors. I have to implement a 24V DC - 12V DC converter to keep my fans, led and probe. I am also implementing a SSR (Crydom D1D40) for the bed, even if the board can manage 15A current, I don't want to overload it. I have to do lots of wiring as the board is much more smaller and terminals layout is different with Molex connectors. I will take the opportunity to use shielded wires for the steppers, thermistors and heaters to reduce EMI, as PT100 are somehow sensitive to that. I will also put Molex micro fit 3.0 connectors close to the printhead for fans, heater cartridges and thermistor, to avoid any future rewiring when exchanging one of these parts. Lots of work for the next two days... I'll keep you updated with some pics. David
  5. Hi MVM Are you sure of your retraction settings ? I know I'm using a E3D V6, which is full metal so I need to limit the retraction, but with 5 mm @ 40mm/s i've got no oozing at all with ABS. I'm printing ABS @260°C as it's a different grade, but it worked smoothly with different colors of filament. ABS produces less oozing that PLA or XT. If your retraction is set too high even with the ptfe lining of your stock XT Plus printhead, you may create a buildup of semi molten abs quite high in the heat break and when it gets too high, you clog the nozzle. BTW : I sent you a PM as I have a big issue with my printer, so getting rid of the Mankati board for a Duet3D. So have a look at your mailbox on this forum David
  6. uninterrupted power supply

    Hi Abhi I use an UPS from Eaton, it's a 5P1550i with a 1550 VA capacity. I'll be able to plug a second printer on it as the power consumption is about 400 to 500 VA when fully loaded. I've got it for nearly a year without any issues. The autonomy is limited to 15 min with only my Mankati on it, but it's mainly used to ensure a good quality of the mains against micro cuts and irregular voltage. David
  7. Layers Shifting

    Hi Leeman Seems the issue is a software / firmware problem. Are you still using Marlin 1.0.x or "official" Mankati Firmwares ? If yes, I do recommend to upgrade to an open source Marlin 1.1 with the appropriate configuration. I have a post in this section of the forum on how to upgrade. Which hot end are you using ? Right one ? Have you tried with another slicer than Cura ? I had issues with Simplify 3D because the offset was done by an older version of Marlin with round off errors. David
  8. auto bed leveling

    Hi The firmware upgrade post aThe auto bed leveling post All the requirements are in the post. Good luck for all the mods David
  9. pause and resume prints

    Hi Regarding the offset, the best thing is to upgrade to Marlin 1.1. See my post on the New Firmware, it solves the issue. Regarding the oozing, normally during a pause, you can move the head out of the part and move the extruder using the command panel. So you can purge the nozzle safely and prime it. Then resume the print with the primed nozzle. David
  10. Unstable temperatures

    Hi I had the feedback from Mankati Support, my board is faulty and needs replacing. Based on their feedback it seems that my board is discontinued, so they kindly offer me to ship me an used board. I'll have to pay for the shipping. So I will upgrade (again) my printer with an up to date board as I don't want to be in the same situation in a couple of months. I'm looking at the Duet Ethernet with a full color touchscreen at the moment. David
  11. auto bed leveling

    Hi I've done it on my full-scale XT Plus, but there is no showstopper to do it the same way on your Full-scale XT. Better use a capacitive probe. First you need to upgrade the firmware. See my post in this section. Second you need to implement the probe physically and in the firmware. I have done another post in this section David
  12. pause and resume prints

    While printing click on the encoder to go to the menu, there's a Pause Print option available, afterwards you can resume the print directly in the menu. Be careful, while paused, the steppers are disabled so the head could potentially move. Also there is a bug in the original firmware and on resume, the print may be offsetted. David
  13. Layers Shifting

    Hi Leeman Looks like the issue I've experienced some months ago : the prints were leaning always on the same side using dual extrusion. I had to upgrade the firmware to Marlin 1.1 RC8. Now the stable version Marlin 1.1 had been released so I'll go for it in your case. I've made a post in this forum's section for the new firmware upgrade Hope it helps David
  14. Mankati XT Plus and Cura

    Hi Sagnak With the original xt plus heads, the offset between the two heads is a bit different, so you'll have to change it in mankati_fullscale_xt_plus_dual_2nd.def.json To have the right measurement, the best is perform some test prints dual colors and adjust the value. Attached some tests files. E3D V6 are highly rated hotends, full metal so you can safely run at 280°C with the standard thermistors. The quality is improved due to the nozzles design and manufacturing. Very reliable and accurate. David Lower.stl One_Color.stl Upper.stl
  15. Unstable temperatures

    Hi Some news about this issue I have replaced my PSU with a TDK-Lambda-GWS-500-24, 500W under 24V. Quite easy to do, but I had to do some wiring as the inputs and outputs are reversed. Since things are a bit better, but I still have temperature stability issues on all temperature sensors, even after some PID autotune. I have cleaned all my contacts, checked the board for any color change or cold solder. I ran the printer without any bottom cover to allow more cooling. I have ran some tests, first with no heating at all and of course no steppers motors, then disconnecting one by one temp sensors. There is some contamination on every signal for temp sensors. Then I started heating the heaters 1 and 2 without the bed. There is some temperature oscillation, +/- 2 °C. Then I heated the bed to 55°C and the oscillations continued for the extruders and smaller but correlated oscillations on the bed temp. Increasing the bed temp to 90°C has increased the temperatures oscillations went to +/-5°C. I need to mention that I had two strange events aprox two weeks ago : - the printer stopped mid print without explanation though I’m having a UPS. - during a print, the flow rate has increased by itself from 100% to more than 200%, doing nothing. I suspect now the board to be faulty when’s hot, impacting the ADC. While preparing my temporary wiring, I had a closer look at the board. Previously I’ve had a look at the connectors and mosfets, but not on the controller. Clearly the ATMega 2650 shows signs of overheating and the ATMega16U2 too. See pics. On my previous check, I've concentrated on the connectors and missed the controllers due to insufficient lightning. After discussion with Savans, the technical support, I have created a temporary separate thermistor line for heater 1, to avoid any electro magnetic interferences. And ran another test. I have followed the below protocol for the test : Turn on the printer Printer idle, just powered on to check connectivity and stability Heater 1 @210°C no bed Heater 1 @210°C Bed @55°C Heater 1 @260°C Bed @55°C Heater 1 @260°C Bed @90°C Heater 1 & 2 @260°C Bed @90°C Heater 1 & 2 @260°C no bed Heater 1 @260°C Bed @90°C Printer turned off Even in phase 2, the temps are not stable and suffers a general interference. In phase 3 and 4 some interferences, but temperature is stable +/- 1°C. Though I don’t know in the long term, as yesterday I was not able to print PLA with these settings. Increasing the load on the board generates the instability and it’s correlated (see phases 7 & 8 screenshot) Reducing the load to only 1 heater is not getting back the printer to normal operations. Now with the last tests I can confirm that the problem is on the board, the ADC (part of the ATMega2560) is faulty, due to overheating. Maybe the previous PSU has provided too high voltage. I am awaiting a feedback from the Mankati Support to find the best option for the board replacement. David
  16. Unstable temperatures

    I forgot to mention that I've replaced the thermistor on my E3D V6 by a brand new one before getting that temperature plot. It's a cartridge type, so easy to install. It was exactly the same pattern with the previous thermistor. David
  17. Hi to all, I am about to move to E3D V6 hot end. I saw a couple of posts in the forum with good results and ease of doing the mod. But I still have some questions about the type of V6 I need to order : Voltage ? 12V or 24 V ?Is it the Direct type which is compliant with the XT plus carriage ?Thanks for your advices. David
  18. Hi to all, I've done some mods on my XT plus. Yes some more mods on top of Marlin, Extruders, Hotends, rods and bearings, steppers motors, belts, pulleys, PEI print bed. I have added a capacitive sensor on the printhead to allow Z probing and therefore Auto Bed Leveling feature which is part of Marlin 1.1.0 RC8. I've bought a LJC18A3-H-Z/BX 1-10mm Capacitance Proximity Sensor Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA So I had to put the sensor on the turbo fan shroud that I've redesigned to fit my E3D V6 Hot ends and improve cooling. STL file attached. Now I just run at 50% fan speed for PLA to have detailed prints. Then do some wiring as the sensor has a pretty short wire, and add a decoupling card to avoid sending +12V on the endstops connectors of the card. I have used the XMAX connector for the sensor's signal and configured the Marlin software accordingly, including the probe offsets from the nozzle. Some more adjustments to set the Z probe offset accurately, having the printer hot, using a sheet of paper to calibrate the nozzle height, then it's done ! Last upload of Marlin and ready to print ! I have tweaked my starting scripts using G29 just after G28, so my bed is probed at the beginning of each print. Attached my configuration.h file. Be careful, it's highly customized against a stock XT plus ! It is just to help you configure your own file. That's great not to worry on each print about the first layer calibration, even if your bed is not perfectly even. Hope it helps ! David Configuration.h Fan + Sensor.stl
  19. Hi MVM, Good to know that you've fixed some issues with your printers. I am also looking at a new printer in the coming months. I'm looking for dual extrusion, but Ultimaker series seems very good and also on 2.85 / 3 mm filament. I'm also looking at the BCN3D Sigma for the independent dual heads system. I had a look at the Colido XT3045. Ok there's a large volume, but resolution is only 0.1 mm and support / community / spare parts may be a problem as it is not a very well known brand. Do you have any broker in your country ? Other consideration, as FDM is getting more mature is not only the resolution but the repeatability and accuracy of the printer, to ensure both dimensional accuracy and surface finish. That implies high quality components for the linear bearings, belts, pulleys (and maybe steppers and stepper drivers). To me, as I'm running my own business, brands like Ultimaker where you can find all the spare parts, support, community is now a must have. David
  20. Hi mvm, I had changed the PTFE tubing too, as it was a bit too short. The point is when cutting the tube, it has to be perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the tube, otherwise it won't fit well the hot end leaving some room for the hot plastic. Since I have switched to E3D V6, it is less prone to leakage. Agree with you that dual extrusion is rather complicated, and basically I nearly use it for support material. I'm thinking about buying a BCN3D Sigma for dual extrusion, has it has two separate heads, so less hassle with properly setting the two nozzles heights, oozing and purging. Good luck for the wiring, it's a bit tedious to do ! How about your issue with the wobbling Z axis ? David
  21. Hi I forgot to mention that I had to reduce the print dimensions to 250 * 250 * 290 to allow some room for the sensor, but also to allow extra movement for the probing. When homing or probing, first thing is to lower the bed by 5 mm then home X and Y and then Home Z. So you need at least an extra distance on top of your max height before being on the mechanical endstop. I had to make some more print tests to fine tune the Z Probe offset. It seems now very reliable. David
  22. I have 23.5 mm between my two hotends on my XT Plus after calibration test. David
  23. Bondtech extruder

    Hi Robg I have 2 Bondtech 3.0 Extruders on my Mankati since July 2016. Works like a charm. I had ordered the 2 brackets at the same time, and it's plug and play. You just have to adjust the e-steps value in Marlin. I haven't tried any flexible filament yet, but it's working great with PLA, ABS, XT, no more grinding except if you have a clogged nozzle or a problem will the spool that hooks the filament before the extruder. If I remember well, you need one left and one right extruder with the standard 2510 connector. Martin, the owner of Bondtech is a very nice guy with a very good customer sense. Best David
  24. Hi to all Due to some bugs in the source code available on NickP's posts when using Simplify 3D and dual extrusion, I had to upgrade the Firmware. So I have upgraded to a stock Marlin 1.1.0 - RC8 firmware, making configuration in only 3 files. First you need to setup an Arduino environment and have implemented the right libraries ( U8glib.h), see this tutorial https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/firmware-flashing-guide.708/ In the IDE configuration you need to specify in Tools section Board : Arduino / Genuino Mega or Mega 2560Processor : AT Mega 2560Port : Your usb port where your printer is attachedSecond you need the source code from Marlin github :1.1.0-RC8.zip . Please read carefully the release notes as it is not an official stable release yet, but last but one release candidate. Third you need the right configuration files (configuration.h, configuration.adv.h, pins_RUMBA.h) and replace the downloaded ones. I have attached mine, but as I have an highly modified printer (Bondtech Extruders, E3D V6 hotends, 400 steps/rev steppers motors, GT2 belts and pulleys), many parameters have been adjusted. I will try to provide the list of changes that should be done to adapt to a standard Full-scale XT Plus (or XT) using your own values. (refer to older source code versions in NickP post for the OEM values) All the changes from the stock source code have been commented by //DVDW File pins_RUMBA.h No changes except if you have implemented more hardware File configuration.adv.h No changes except if you want to tweak features like lcd screen or thermal protection File configuration.h It is the main configuration file. You have to take your own values from your configuration.h file in NickP post version. Some changes made are linked to the hardware of the stock machine and don't need to be changed. Here's the list of points you need to review and apply your own changes : #define HOTEND_OFFSET_X and #define HOTEND_OFFSET_Y : offset between your 2 hotends, need to be set accordingly to your HW. If you use Cura / Mankati UM, uncomment these lines, you can set them using M218 in your starting script if you use a different slicer.#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 : if you are using the standard 100k thermistor from Mankati, should be set to 1#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 : if you are using the standard 100k thermistor from Mankati, should be set to 1#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP and #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP and #define BED_MAXTEMP : refer to your own values#define DEFAULT_Kp, #define DEFAULT_Ki, #define DEFAULT_Kd : refer to your own values or best make a PID from your host and report the actual values#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT : refer to your own values. Should be something like {78.74,78.74,800,600} or best do the calibration !section Preheat Constants : use your own valuesIf you want to make your calibration (PID, X steps, Ysteps, Zsteps and E steps per extruder), there are many useful tutos on reprap forums or Tom's Guide on youtube. I recommend doing it to improve the print quality. Please remember doing the upgrade is at your own risk and you need to be sure you have the Arduino environnement properly set up and use the right parameters. Worst case you can brick your printer ! I've posted my upgrade procedure and some information to let you do the same. It is working fine for me but I wouldn't be liable for any problems you'll get into. This upgrade provides me many improvements : print quality, bug fixes, better bed leveling options and convenient homing procedure. I may implement additional features : auto bed leveling (awaiting my probe to install it on a new redesigned turbo fan shroud) and maybe the linear advance feature to improve the ooze control. It is now a standard implementation from Marlin open source code (only the 3 configuration files needs to be tweaked) and will allow me to upgrade to the latest Marlin version. The menus are a bit different, with more options, but still close to the original ones. Good news is I'm not anymore dependent on Mankati support. David Configuration_adv.h Configuration.h pins_RUMBA.h
  25. Hi Straub There are some differences between the two configuration.h files. Seems that i've messed up between versions. Here's the configuration.h file I currently use. Should compile without problems. Remember you need to make the changes described in my post to have the right configuration, as my machine is highly customized. Best regards David Configuration.h
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