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mvm

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Everything posted by mvm

  1. I seem to have a new problem with my brandnew XT Plus printer.... I noticed that the vertical walls of my prints were not straight. Then I checked the screws on the X- and Y-axis. I found that one of the screws was missing and it had dropped on the printbed floor. Put it back again and made it real tight. See picture 1. Then I made a testprint, the same I made last week. This is just a small testprint of a vertical wall with two cylinder endpoints, one solid, the other one hollow. I first printed it with the model oriented in the Y-direction. See picture 2. You can clearly see on the right the original print which is OK. The left print I made today and you can clearly see the wavy vertical wall. I also made the same print in the X-direction. See picture three. The model on the left is Y-axis orientation, the right model is the same model in the X-direction. Checked all the screws on the axisses I can see, but they all seem tight. Anyone any ideas on where to look to solve this... ??
  2. Hi Fiteeket, No problem. Yes, replacing the tube on the XT is a bit of a fuss because the clips by which it is secured to the (red) guide block are a bit difficult to remove. Or perhaps I simply did it the wronig way. Also, the tube swells a bit after long use and will be very tight in the PEEK, so that is hard to remove. The XT Plus is much more simple, because you can simply unscrew the Bowden tube from the guide block. I often do this if the nozzle gets clogged, just to push a bit of filament through to see if I can clear it that way (often helps) or to just put a few drops of sunflower oil in it. The oil seems to reduce the tendency to clog. In total, my XT has had twice the printing hours of the XT Plus. That said, on the XT I never got printing with ABS correct so I simply don't use ABS on the XT. With the XT Plus, printing ABS actually works very well. I am not sure why this is, but on the XT, my ABS layers never seem to be as strong as they should be. I really don't level the bed very much. I use 3D Lac spray to simply put a thin cover on the glass bed and that sticks very well. Except for Nylon that is, but I don't used that much any more. On the XT Plus, I need to replace the cooling fan again because on of the wires got lose. I really want to design a new fan holder for the print cooling fan. The original model always gets damaged after a while. At the moment it works. I have a E3D V6 Hotend with all the works, but I haven't had the time to install it yet. Actually, at the moment, I don't get that many clogged nozzles any more. I have no experience with the Bondtech extruders. About a year ago, I was really thinking about getting one (on the XT), but after getting my Bowden tube problem solved, I don't seem to need it anymore. My basic procedure for a print is simple. 1) Heat the printer and bed to the right temperature 2) While doing that, I wipe the printbed with a slightly damp cloth and then spray a bit of 3D Lac on it in the area where I am going to print. 3) Extrude about 15-30 mm of filament from the nozzle after heating it up. The way the filament will flow usually tells me already if I have a clogging problem. Also, I usually need to do this after switching filament type and/or color to get the last remains out of the nozzle 4) Start the print. 5) Watch the way the first layer is laid down. If it doesn't go right, I immediately stop the print, lower the bed, clean it and start again.
  3. Hi Fiteeket, Long post but with a familiar problem I have both a Mankati XT (my first 3D Printer) as well as the XT Plus (second printer). I basically used them every day for print. The XT has been used for about 6700 hours now, the XT Plus for 3380 hours. Both are busy printing as we speak. I have had problems with both printers because of clogged nozzles. With the XT, when the printer is having issues with extrusion, it is either the nozzle being blockedd OR the last part of the Bowden tube that extends into the nozzle has some filament residue stacking up inside. If you have printed for a long time and you remove the nozzle, you will notice that the end of the Bowden tube has become brown and or has even deformed. The first thing you can do is use a 2.5 or 3mm drill bit and simply drill out any remaining and stuck filament in the tube. I sometimes push a 3mm iron wire through the whole Bowden to push out any remaing stuff. This will work for some time but after having done this several times, you will have damaged the inside of the tube and the problems will reappear. Second thing you can do is to remove the PEEK block, loosen the tube and push it through 1-2 cm and cut if off again at a point where it is nice and clean again. Make sure you cut it off straight because otherwise you will be oozing filament out of strange places. This is a bit of work and you will have to fiddle a bit for the first time. Just make sure you do not bend the guide rods of course because that would ruin your printer. You can also buy a new Bowden tube and replace the whole tube. I have done this on March 26th this year and the printer has been running another 1150 hours since. To be honest, I do get failed prints sometimes because the nozzle can still get clogged. Usually this happens after switching different types of filament
  4. I am having a problem when printing with ABS. I seem to be having a reoccuring problem with ABS printing on my XT plus printer. The problem is simple, but keeps coming back. I am print a lot with ABS lately, and usually, each print takes about 6-8 hours per piece. After two prints, the print nozzle suddenly is clogged and I have to clean it to get it working again. I am printing a decent quality of ABS at 236 degrees Celsius. Am using the standard 10 mm of retraction at 790 mm/s. Printing speed is 35/55 mm/s, depending on the model being printed. Any one else having this same problem?
  5. Forgot all about this post. I finally traced down the problem to the small steel tube to which the nozzle is screwed (the heatbreak) had a somewhat damaged or deformed nozzle. I (again) burned it clean with a torch, as well as the nozzle itself, and then with a file reworked the tip of the heatbreak to make it smooth and even again. After that, the problem of clogging has disappeared. I think the issue was that during retraction, a bit of filament might have stock to the deformed area, slowly blocking the nozzle over time. I have since then also reduced my retraction settings as less retraction seems to work just as well. I have added a Creatbot DE Plus to my arsenal because I wanted a printer with a (much) larger build volume. Although the axis systems works different than on the Mankati, the Creatbot is otherwise very similar. However, the Creatbot works fine with just 3 mm of retraction (it will fail with 10 mm retraction very quickly). At the moment I am still tuning my retraction settings for the Mankati. In the mean time, I did get a E3DV6 hotend, but haven't found the time yet to install it.
  6. Hi Leeman, Well, I discovered it by accident. But my problem was not as consistent as yours. My X/Y-axis changes seemed to be random so I first thought I was doing something wrong myself. And yes, I held onto the rods with one hand and then tried to move the printhead, If you can move it while the rod is standing still, the pulley is slipping. But in your case, I would suggest something else is wrong. Have you checked to motor steps ? Are you using the Mankati 6.5.3 slicer software?
  7. Hi Leeman, It looks like you are having a similar problem I have had once last year. It was caused by one of the belt pulleywheels attached to the rotating rods that was slipping. In my case, I had to replace one of those very tiny screws because I could not tighten it strongly enough to keep it from slipping on the axis. Let me know if it works.
  8. not slicing and printing small objects

    @Hi Dipicorg, Good work1 @Sarah, If you are designing small stuff, remember that wall thicknesses should best match your nozzles. Otherwise you might end up with a model that will be only partly printed. Mankati UM will simply ignore walls that are too thin. So when you have an object with some very thin walls in it you will end up with a print that will be missing certain parts.
  9. Hi David, I have been looking at the Ultimaker a lot (I'm Dutch and Ultimaker is also Dutch, so you can find them everywhere). However, IMHO, the Ultimaker is very similar to the Mankati. I like the Mankati chassis, it is much more solid than the Ultimaker's aluminum sandwhich panel. Print quality is similar to the Mankati, but the price is higher for a smaller build volume. And I really like the big volume on the Mankati. The Mankati does have its quirks and issues, but these are relatively easy to solve in my opinion. So far, I have not had any problems with Mankati support, their delivery is fast. Am only waiting for some parts because these are out of stock, but otherwise, I've always had parts within a week. Will take a look at the BCN3D Sigma, it looks promising. I never have been very succesfull in using two extruders at the same time. The Sigma is about as expensive as the Ultimaker with a slightly larger build volume.
  10. Hi David, My apologies for the late reply. Too busy and to little time I fixed the XT problem last week. First, I removed the nozzle again, pulled the PTFE tube a little bit furter and cut it again, making sure to cut it straight. Then reattached the nozzle (really tight) and the leaking filament problem was solved (luckily). It is very easy to have your knif slide sideways when cutting the PTFE-tube, so I printed a very small block with a hole for the tube and a small slit for the knife. Then, this weekend, I got problems with the vertical wobbles again. Cleaned all the rods and belts with a soapy microfiber towel. Then I found, the printhead gets really stuck without oiling (and I mean REALLY stuck). Oiled all the rods again and then cleaned and greased the Z-axis leadscrew and guide rods.Now the printer seems to be printing fine again. The XT Plus is still not OK. It is pringing, but I am awaithing new printhead lineair bearings and the large fan. For now, I have screwed the second small cooling fan onto the large fan so at least I have some cooling and it works, but it is not perfect. Prints is now doing a 72 hours print and with 30 hours gone it is still doing OK. Still have lots of prints to do. Am actually thinking of getting a third printer. Still undecided if that should be an Ultimaker, another Mankati or perhaps something else. Was looking at the Colido XT3045 because of the large printvolume, but that is using 1.75mm filament. Would rather not have to buy everything again.
  11. VERY NICE !!! I am impressed with all the modifications you have made to your Mankati. Am not sure if I would be able to do the same. Had some serious trouble last month with my printers. I replace the PTFE-tube on my XT model, after more than 5000 hour of printing, it was really worn and too short to cut of another piece. Replacemend was not that difficult, but now the printhead is leaking filament all over the place. Had bigger problems with the XT Plus. Had some very long prints to do (65 hours) in PETG. Had some trouble with it and cleaned the nozzles and printhead. After that I had a runaway with the heating system, with melted every plastic part in the printhead (fan holders etc). Was lucky I think it didn't catch fire. Mankati send me all the parts for free and now have replaced all the wiring with thermisistors, temp sensors, cooling fan etc. Printer is now basically a single extruder version since in practie, I never used the two extruder option anyway. Am printing again, but still need to make everything tidy and put away all the loose wiring.
  12. Hi, I have very little experience with using two materials because I have disable the second printnozzle on both my printers because they kept interfering with other prints. One cause could be the setting in the MankatiUM. There is a option in the Printer-settings which defines the distance between the two nozzles. I believe this should be something like 20 mm. However, if your actual distance between your two nozzles is different, the printhead would move to a slightly offset location. Perhaps this is the cause of your problem.
  13. I had to do a very narrow print last week using PETG as material. Could not get the print right and was thinking the printtemp was the problem. Until I noticed that every time the nozzle moved over the print, my second nozzle would actually touch the print and damaging it. I have noticed this before and sometimes it happens even if I set the second nozzle just a bit higher than the first one. I solved the the problem by simply printing the object in the forward-backward direction instead of left-right.(print was only 10mm wide, but about 17 cm long and 12 cm high). Has anyone else experienced this and if so, how did you solve it?
  14. Your print looks good, but not yet better than the original I think. What did you use to one the quide rods? Where did you get all the parts you used for the rebuild? And how do you adjust all the settings for the software?
  15. Hi David, First, Happy New Year! You have done a lot of work. I sure hope it pays of. It looks very good!! I still have not found the time to work on my Mankati XT part. Have taken it apart and checked all screws, but it still wobles. With my second printer (the XT Plus), I am also very busy and that works They only real modifications I made to my XT Plus so far is that I designed and printed new fan-holders for the hotends. They seem to be working better than the original one. I have only had one clogged nozzle since then. Let me know how the quality of your prints turn out after you have finished tuning it!!
  16. I am trying to print an object (T-profile) in Nylon but it keeps warping from the printbed. Material used is a (new) spool of Taulman 645 The object needs to be printed pretty solid (50% infill) to give it some strength,but it keeps getting loose from the printbed after about an hour or so of printing Have tried tape+glue, 3D Lac, printed it with a heated bed from 45C all the way up to 80 C but it keeps getting loose. I have printed nylon before, but never an object this large (total printtime about 10 hours). Any suggestions to get this right?
  17. Since a few month, the Mankati E180 has been for sale. Has any one bought one of these new printers and if so, what are your finding regarding ease of use and quality of prints,
  18. Hi Bram, Actually, so far, I have never ever connected my computer to my Mankati, so I have no idea. Did you have this problem after trying to attempt to upgrade the firmware? I would suggest you contact Mankati support. Usually they respond in the same day with suggestions on what you can do.
  19. Hi David, What exactly do you mean by the gantry rods? Do you mean the rods for the X and Y -axis? I have had my XT for 18 months now and the XT Plus for about 6 and both printers are printing daily. I see no finish coming off or anything like it. I can wipe them clean (they are always oiled) and they are all still shiny. I do have an issue at the moment on my XT printer. After 4800 hours of printing, in the Z-axis, any wall is no longer straigh but a little wavey. I have one pulley with a worn screwthread, probably because I replaced a lost screw (the tiney Allenhead screws) with a makeshift on. Have taken the printbed out and checking all screws, nuts, belts and everything else that moves. Other than this, both my Mankati's have been pretty reliable. Let me know your solution for upgrading the printhead guide rods to 8mm. I would be interesting in doing that as well.
  20. Ever since I have had my Fullscale XT Plus (in addition to the Fullscale XT I have had for over a 18 months now), I have had problems with long prints. The cause of the problem is simply that the material gets clogged up in the printhead where it solidifies. This does not happen with all materials, but especially PLA seems to be susceptible to this. The easy solution to this problem is to reduce retraction to just a few mm's, but the your get the problem of stringing. So, my question is, how much retraction are you using on a Fullscale XT Plus. With PLA I am down to around 4-5 mm. With PETG I am using 7-8 mm, but even then I get stringing on prints.
  21. Hi James, My favourite materials are still PLA and PETG. PETG mostly if the object needs to be flexibel. But NGEN and ASA (Apollo-X from FormFutura is what I have) alse print well. For flexible material I use Flexifill from Formfutura. XT and ABS are more difficult and I have more or less given up on Nylon. Nylon simply warps to much and usually does not stay stuck on the glass bed with the 3D Lac spray I use for evertying else. I am experimenting with Innofil Pro which should be stronger than PLA and ABS. Also I have a roll op POM and some HD-PLA which you need to be into an oven after printing to make it stronge and heatresistant up to 140 degrees C. But I agree, there should be a 'best' way to keep the printer running without issues. Just the last two days I wasn't able to print because the flow would stop after a while. So I cleaned the tube. Really should need to design a different fan holder that cools the top part better but haven't gotten around to it.
  22. Hi James, Thanks for your answer. Yes, I have had my share of clogging. I rarely print ABS anymore since there are so much better materials available that don't have the issue of warping and smell like ABS does. PETG is one of my favourities, but also NGEN, HT, ASA give all better results and stronger prints than ABS. It is mainly with PLA that I have my problems, so I am indeed using 3-4mm with PLA and up to 7-8mm with PETG. The problem is indeed the heat creep upwards into the heatsink as you mentioned. The XT does not have this problem (I use 10mm retraction there), so when I first started using the XT Plus you can imagine my surprise when all prints seem to fail miserable. I regularly put a drop of sunflower baking oil (just a singel drop) into the tube of the printhead and this helps avoiding the PLA clogging, but it is an issue. When I have more time, I will see if bigger/stronger fans will help as well.
  23. Hi Jasso, What material are your printing this with? Can you give us some more specifics on the settings you are using? Like layer height, speed, shell thickness, infill% etc.
  24. Resume after Pause

    Hi Darqueone, I have had exactly the same issue once. In the middle of a print I needed to change the filament and thought this was a handy feature. Unfortunately, it did not work out that way, printhead moved about 4-5mm after the resume. And this was at the end of a 10 hour print! I just assumed it might have been cause by the fact that I have replace my XT-mainboard with that of a XT-Plus model. Never used this option again ever since. Haven't tried it yet on my second XT Plus printer though.
  25. Hi Cosmowave, Would not mind having that information also. You best contact Mankati support. Over the last year, I have been in touch with them many times, mostly on ordering items and their replies and support has always been fast. If they can't help you, you could always cut a nozzle in half of course, but that would cost you US$ 15.00 for a new nozzle.
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