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seadog

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seadog last won the day on November 1 2015

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About seadog

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  1. Dual front fan holders

    If you do choose to try the holder be sure to use TINY self tappers. two long ones to hold the front and back in place and eight similar gauge short one for the fans
  2. Dual front fan holders

    Sorry for the late reply, I have been otherwise occupied but here are the files. The supporting vanes are tailored to the fan units mentioned in my post anything different will not work as well. That said the setup works OK as far as I can tell so good luck Dual holder-front.STL Dual holder-rear.STL
  3. and by the way I also had a power supply fail....could be your problem if you are not reading a voltage output
  4. Hello mvm, Have you checked that the plug under the bed is making contact/not faulty, I had to replace mine. If that is OK then you will have to remove the cover plate underneath and see if there is anything amiss there. Failing that it looks like a call to Mankati. At least by that stage you will have eliminated the obvious. cheers
  5. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hi 3dbelanger, Thanks for the tip on Fusion. I am gradually coming to grips with it and it is an improvement over SW. (And the price was right too) Seadog
  6. D-Limonene

    It didn't take long, about an hour and a half for a couple of smallish parts. The use of a stiff bristle brush occasionally would shorten the process even more cheers
  7. D-Limonene

    Hello All, I have just picked u a container of D-Limonene from a company in Coolaroo, Melbourne ,Australia. You can find them on the Web at <bulkwholesale.com.au>. Now I can find how it works on HIPS support material. cheers Seadog
  8. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hi 3dbelanger, I am on it now. thanks Seadog
  9. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hello 3dbelanger, what version of Solidworks were you using and how different was the change to Fusion 360 cheers
  10. Bondtech extruder

    Hello Nick, sorry for the late reply a bit busy I'm afraid. Yes I did adjust the extrusion multiplier similar to others, extruded nominal 500mm and adjusted Esteps accordingly. Part of the reason for my tardy reply was, regardless of the apparently 'correct' Estep settingI was having a lot of difficulty with over extruding at the start of a print but it would appear that that has now been overcome...whew. So... the situation would be (after reading the available advice from Simplify3D and from Buildtak) and other sources print the first layer a little slower and a little higher and a little wider and at the start everything would be fine...then...there would be the dreaded clicking sound from the extruder as it tried to force more filament through the little 0.4mm dia hole than would fit in the time available (note here that the filament wouldn't 'grind', the Bondtech doesn't do that, it just keeps pushing doesn't it Nick). Then I read back on the Simplify3D 'Tips of the Day' and discovered that as the height of the initial layer is increased ABOVE 100% the software INCREASES the feed rate accordingly so as I tried to make more room for the filament to escape the software was arranged to keep the status quo! So what I do now, (and it might not be the neatest way but it appears to work), is this: For PLA and a layer height of 0.2mm, Nozzle temp 215º and a basic printing speed of 4800mm/min First layer height 150% First layer width 60% First layer speed 75% THEN....for the first layer tune the flow rate to about 68% After the first layer is completed I then bring the flow rate up to 100% again and increase the speed to 133% and Bobs your uncle! I have done a fair few prints by this method and don't have the dreaded EXTRUDER CLICK any more. Of course this result could be achieved much more cleanly and simply than what I have outlined but it works on MY printer so for the time being I will stick with it. I should also say that I have spent much time in truing up the running gear on the printer and have replaced all the machine screws with cap head screws and nyloc nuts so nothing should loosen there. There is a saying that games like cricket and baseball should be impossible due to the variety of ways and speed that the ball reaches the batter/batsman combined with human reaction times. In the same vein because of the many different ways that a print can go wrong 3D printing should be impossible too! Seadog
  11. Hello Joe, I too went through the sort of frustrations that you are experiencing but I have to say, with the vast experience of 12 months use (ho ho ), that most of your problems will probably stem from operator induced causes. I can only suggest that you study the posts of some of our more experienced members and apply some of their suggestions. It can be a steep learning curve but it will become easier when you understand just what it is that you are trying to make that little hot nozzle do. After a bit of work there will be a buildup of filament on the inside of the feeder tube ( because the tube is quite warm and some filament will stick) again this can be caused partly due to incorrect settings. It is a good idea to clean this out regularly. I unscrew the the bowden cable fitting off the main body and push an ordinary wooden keebab skewer (they are about 3mm dia) down the tube and twist it around a bit and that seems to work OK. Bye the way the black oil on the main supporting rods is not wear, just the oil doing its'job. A few people have commented about uneven length nozzles, I haven't had that problem so can't comment but I would advise against trying to adjust them by loosening one off, that will lead to filament leaking down the loosened thread. What did become apparent to me was that the mere action of tightening the feeder bodies into the main carriage can cause the feeder body to move vertically due to the action of the screw on the body and the slight amount of clearance in the main body. I have inserted shims to limit this and have since had no problems in this regard. With respect to your comment on the uneven build plate I have commented elsewhere on this. I consider that a factor here is the incongruity of adjusting an apparently rigid plate with four corner screws, one can have a situation similar to a table with one short leg! I would venture to suggest that most problems with uneven beds is that the four screws are fighting one another. My solution to this was to convert to a three point support (which is described elsewhere in this section..I think). Since doing this adjustment is a breeze. in fact when starting a new print I will, after doing an initial leveling, start the print with four or five Outline/Perimeter Shells (in Simplify3D) and fine tune the nozzle height as they are being printed. The three point system doesn't impose any cross stresses on the plate and I find now. after six months or so of use that waviness in the bed is no longer an issue. For extra lighting I use a study lamp, mine is an EPSILON LED DESK LAMP. Apart from being useful when working on maintenance I set it up to shine across the bed at the start of a print to see how evenly the filament is being laid. Works well. Try not to cast around for too many outside 'fixes' the Mankati basically is a solid unit, maybe not as 'polished' as some of its' competitors but properly managed as good as any. Having said that mine now has been converted to 'Plus' standard with Bontech extruders ( with the later easy release conversion which I LOVE...nice work Martin). No more grinding and I can now use up all the end lengths of filament again. Hang in there Joe! Bye Seadog
  12. PTFE feeder tube

    You need to hold the black collar down against the brass sleeve while the tube is pulled upwards. This prevents the teeth on the 'black bit' being pulled up the taper and gripping the tube. bye
  13. I have found that Mankati don't necessarily list everything that is available, only what they perceive is popular. Send them an email with your request. bye
  14. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hi, What technique did you use to apply the CF Seadog
  15. Carbon Fibre Filament

    Stainless steel is a poor heat conductor so probably wouldn't work very well although it would wear well. I have wondered if perhaps titanium would work, it is very tough although I haven't checked its' heat conductivity properties and manufacture would be a problem. Just a thought.
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