Jump to content

seadog

Members
  • Content count

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by seadog

  1. Dual front fan holders

    Hi All, I had to replace a printhead cooling fan the other day (broken wire) and it prompted some thought as to a redesign of the fan mounting/cooling layout. The fans I bought are 30x30 6mm SIRROCO units from JAYCAR and, I think, a bit more powerful. It occurred to me that coercing the airflow right around the cooling fins might be beneficial and so I have come up with a two piece design that fits snugly around the two barrels and hopefully achieves that aim. The front and back are screwed together and the fans are simply attached with small screws to the front. Total weight (sorry...mass) of plastic is about 16g compared to 21g for the originals so no prob there. The odd arrangement of the inner cone supports matches the fans' own supports and I feel that the provision of the inner cone improves the airflow. I have squooshed the exit hole to an elliptical shape at the exit and aimed the airflow slightly downwards (very technical ...ha ha). It is pretty much hot off the press but so far it looks good. Cheers
  2. Dual front fan holders

    If you do choose to try the holder be sure to use TINY self tappers. two long ones to hold the front and back in place and eight similar gauge short one for the fans
  3. Dual front fan holders

    Sorry for the late reply, I have been otherwise occupied but here are the files. The supporting vanes are tailored to the fan units mentioned in my post anything different will not work as well. That said the setup works OK as far as I can tell so good luck Dual holder-front.STL Dual holder-rear.STL
  4. and by the way I also had a power supply fail....could be your problem if you are not reading a voltage output
  5. Hello mvm, Have you checked that the plug under the bed is making contact/not faulty, I had to replace mine. If that is OK then you will have to remove the cover plate underneath and see if there is anything amiss there. Failing that it looks like a call to Mankati. At least by that stage you will have eliminated the obvious. cheers
  6. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hi 3dbelanger, Thanks for the tip on Fusion. I am gradually coming to grips with it and it is an improvement over SW. (And the price was right too) Seadog
  7. D-Limonene

    Hello All, I have just picked u a container of D-Limonene from a company in Coolaroo, Melbourne ,Australia. You can find them on the Web at <bulkwholesale.com.au>. Now I can find how it works on HIPS support material. cheers Seadog
  8. D-Limonene

    It didn't take long, about an hour and a half for a couple of smallish parts. The use of a stiff bristle brush occasionally would shorten the process even more cheers
  9. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hi 3dbelanger, I am on it now. thanks Seadog
  10. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hello 3dbelanger, what version of Solidworks were you using and how different was the change to Fusion 360 cheers
  11. Bondtech extruder

    Hello Nick, sorry for the late reply a bit busy I'm afraid. Yes I did adjust the extrusion multiplier similar to others, extruded nominal 500mm and adjusted Esteps accordingly. Part of the reason for my tardy reply was, regardless of the apparently 'correct' Estep settingI was having a lot of difficulty with over extruding at the start of a print but it would appear that that has now been overcome...whew. So... the situation would be (after reading the available advice from Simplify3D and from Buildtak) and other sources print the first layer a little slower and a little higher and a little wider and at the start everything would be fine...then...there would be the dreaded clicking sound from the extruder as it tried to force more filament through the little 0.4mm dia hole than would fit in the time available (note here that the filament wouldn't 'grind', the Bondtech doesn't do that, it just keeps pushing doesn't it Nick). Then I read back on the Simplify3D 'Tips of the Day' and discovered that as the height of the initial layer is increased ABOVE 100% the software INCREASES the feed rate accordingly so as I tried to make more room for the filament to escape the software was arranged to keep the status quo! So what I do now, (and it might not be the neatest way but it appears to work), is this: For PLA and a layer height of 0.2mm, Nozzle temp 215º and a basic printing speed of 4800mm/min First layer height 150% First layer width 60% First layer speed 75% THEN....for the first layer tune the flow rate to about 68% After the first layer is completed I then bring the flow rate up to 100% again and increase the speed to 133% and Bobs your uncle! I have done a fair few prints by this method and don't have the dreaded EXTRUDER CLICK any more. Of course this result could be achieved much more cleanly and simply than what I have outlined but it works on MY printer so for the time being I will stick with it. I should also say that I have spent much time in truing up the running gear on the printer and have replaced all the machine screws with cap head screws and nyloc nuts so nothing should loosen there. There is a saying that games like cricket and baseball should be impossible due to the variety of ways and speed that the ball reaches the batter/batsman combined with human reaction times. In the same vein because of the many different ways that a print can go wrong 3D printing should be impossible too! Seadog
  12. Hello Joe, I too went through the sort of frustrations that you are experiencing but I have to say, with the vast experience of 12 months use (ho ho ), that most of your problems will probably stem from operator induced causes. I can only suggest that you study the posts of some of our more experienced members and apply some of their suggestions. It can be a steep learning curve but it will become easier when you understand just what it is that you are trying to make that little hot nozzle do. After a bit of work there will be a buildup of filament on the inside of the feeder tube ( because the tube is quite warm and some filament will stick) again this can be caused partly due to incorrect settings. It is a good idea to clean this out regularly. I unscrew the the bowden cable fitting off the main body and push an ordinary wooden keebab skewer (they are about 3mm dia) down the tube and twist it around a bit and that seems to work OK. Bye the way the black oil on the main supporting rods is not wear, just the oil doing its'job. A few people have commented about uneven length nozzles, I haven't had that problem so can't comment but I would advise against trying to adjust them by loosening one off, that will lead to filament leaking down the loosened thread. What did become apparent to me was that the mere action of tightening the feeder bodies into the main carriage can cause the feeder body to move vertically due to the action of the screw on the body and the slight amount of clearance in the main body. I have inserted shims to limit this and have since had no problems in this regard. With respect to your comment on the uneven build plate I have commented elsewhere on this. I consider that a factor here is the incongruity of adjusting an apparently rigid plate with four corner screws, one can have a situation similar to a table with one short leg! I would venture to suggest that most problems with uneven beds is that the four screws are fighting one another. My solution to this was to convert to a three point support (which is described elsewhere in this section..I think). Since doing this adjustment is a breeze. in fact when starting a new print I will, after doing an initial leveling, start the print with four or five Outline/Perimeter Shells (in Simplify3D) and fine tune the nozzle height as they are being printed. The three point system doesn't impose any cross stresses on the plate and I find now. after six months or so of use that waviness in the bed is no longer an issue. For extra lighting I use a study lamp, mine is an EPSILON LED DESK LAMP. Apart from being useful when working on maintenance I set it up to shine across the bed at the start of a print to see how evenly the filament is being laid. Works well. Try not to cast around for too many outside 'fixes' the Mankati basically is a solid unit, maybe not as 'polished' as some of its' competitors but properly managed as good as any. Having said that mine now has been converted to 'Plus' standard with Bontech extruders ( with the later easy release conversion which I LOVE...nice work Martin). No more grinding and I can now use up all the end lengths of filament again. Hang in there Joe! Bye Seadog
  13. PTFE feeder tube

    You need to hold the black collar down against the brass sleeve while the tube is pulled upwards. This prevents the teeth on the 'black bit' being pulled up the taper and gripping the tube. bye
  14. I have found that Mankati don't necessarily list everything that is available, only what they perceive is popular. Send them an email with your request. bye
  15. 3d printed quadcopter

    Hi, What technique did you use to apply the CF Seadog
  16. Carbon Fibre Filament

    Stainless steel is a poor heat conductor so probably wouldn't work very well although it would wear well. I have wondered if perhaps titanium would work, it is very tough although I haven't checked its' heat conductivity properties and manufacture would be a problem. Just a thought.
  17. You could try Elmers Glue Stick, here in Aussie land Officeworks stock it. It is purple and washable meaning the residue can be cleaned off the bed with warm water...no scraping
  18. Hello MVM, In regard to your comment on lighting I have found a study lamp to be very useful. Mine has an extendable arm which allows me to position the light so that it shines tangentially across the table at the beginning of a print so that the initial layers show clearly or I can sit it on top if I want more general lighting. Much better that fooling around with the printers electrics....and it can be used for study too ! cheers
  19. This isn't going to help you MVM but could the initial cause of your problem be because of the torsion applied to the (near) rigid glass bed when adjusting the level with FOUR corner screws. It is near impossible to arrive at a situation where there is zero stress in the plate with the four adjustment points fighting against one another. The fact that one of the corners broke off tends to support my view that the plate will always be stressed to some degree. Some time ago I posted my solution to this problem which was to convert to a three point arrangement. It works very satisfactorily (see MODIFICATION TO HEAT BEAD MOUNTING in this section) and it makes height adjustment much simpler. What about it MANKATI there is already a hole in the metal mounting plate, in the middle at the back for a third screw so why the four point adjustment ? cheers
  20. Is that something between a squawk and a quack?
  21. I wonder if anyone has been able to accurately measure the true temp of the extruders as opposed to that which is indicated on the screen, particularly if it has been necessary to remove and replace the sensor a few times. I have produced, in PLA several prints now, one of them at 75mm/sec with an INDICATED temp of 230º. Anything much lower didn't work. Maybe using some silicone heat transfer paste would make a difference in accuracy. Must try it and see. On a similar subject my HOBBYKING infrared thermometer indicates a wide rang of temps around the bed. Would this, perhaps be the cause of some sticking problems? cheers
  22. Bondtech extruder

    Hi Nick, Just installed as is. I did correct the 'Esteps' value (under the CONTROL/MOTION heading) to adjust the feedrate but apart from that - nothing else. In view of some of the previous comments regarding 'blocks' there is one thing one has to be careful of with Bondtech extruders-THEY EXERT A POWERFUL PUSH and they DO NOT 'GRIND'. This can mean that if there is any restriction at the nozzle end - say, if there is an actual obstruction or the nozzle is too close to the bed or if the feed rate is too high THE EXTRUDER WILL JUST KEEP PUSHING AWAY - COMPRESSING THE FILAMENT in the feed tube so that filament flow will gradually die. This would probably be accompanied by some clicking at the extruder thereby providing a warning that something is wrong. As an example of the strength of the thrust exerted I had a situation on an overnight print where a mal feed did occur and on checking next morning found that filament was deformed all the way up to the bowden tube connection! That is the 'bad' news, the good news is that with the setting correct everything works BEAUTIFULLY, no worrying about how much pressure to put on those pesky springs or having to keep the teeth clear of filament residue etc I am happy with my purchase cheers Seadog.
  23. Prints sharing

    How long did it take to dissolve?
  24. Prints sharing

    Let you know how I go. This type of process makes available shapes that would be impractical by normal means. I am just sorry that I was born 20 or 30 years too early!!
  25. nijaflex

    With a softer filament I guess it is a matter of an even finer balance between flow rate and temperature. You will probably have to play around with those settings.
×