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Darqueone last won the day on January 7 2016

Darqueone had the most liked content!

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About Darqueone

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  1. Resume after Pause

    Thanks mvm and Seamongrel, It's nice to know it's not just me. It would be a handy feature, I have a number of part rolls that I want to use up but this stops me from clearing out old stock. If I find a solution I will let everyone know. cheers
  2. HI All, This has been bugging me for a while but never got around to resolving. Any time I pause a print - say to change filament, my XT Plus resumes but the y asis will be out by o.5 to 1 mm which just ruins the print. I am super careful not to move the head or do anything to trow it out. Any one else have this issue or know what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. I had the same issue with my Plus, although the new version of the firmware is much better, For me the best solution I had was increasing the print temp by about 10 degrees more than you normally would, reduce the retraction to around 2mm and drop the fan speed on PLA to about 60%. I had a lot of trouble with a specific brand of filament that had slight changes in the oustide diameter that would just play havoc with the printer. Changed to eSun and most of the issues went away. For my printer it seems very sensitive to any filament that has a lot of curl to the filament - particularly the end of the roll.
  4. Print bed shifting by 10mm

    Hi Tanu - you might want to have a look at this post as well - there may be some info in there that may help. http://forum.mankati.com/topic/51-skipping-steps-on-z-axis/ Cheers
  5. Print Nozzle livespan

    Hi MVM, Not sure if this is the issue or not but the carbon fibre filament might be part of your issue. From what I can see the filament will happily erode any no toughened surface especially brass and aluminum - there are quite a few posts in other areas about how quickly this filament eats into metal parts.cheers
  6. HI Seadog, Good to know that Officeworks stock it - was looking everywhere for it. This stuff I am using is pretty much the same I think - all the guys in the US always mention Elmers as their go to glue. I love the fact you can just wash it off no fuss. cheers
  7. Hi TonyR, I feel your pain - I have had quite a few of these in my time as well. I apply the glue stick directly to my print bed - either glass or now aluminum - no tape or other material applied. The glue stick is form a cheap Japanese product shop - these have cropped up recently in the area I live in. I am in Australia - but I think the key thing is the contents are PVP (the glue stick is a triangle shape if that helps but it has no brand that I can read anyway) which seem to be the key ingredient. The glue is applied in about four layers in different directions when the bed is warm - about 65oC. I would also suggest to think about printing with a raft or brim - these will extend past the size of the print on the x an y and will give bigger surface area to adhere to the bed. And if anything lets go it is usually just the corner of the brim/raft and not the part it self. When I used to use ABS juice one trick I employed many times was if I saw a corner start to lift I would quickly glue it back down to the bed with a dab of ABS Juice to the corner and push the corner back down to glue it back to the bed. - Saved a lot of problems. A couple of other things to check - the first layer is critical - it needs to look and feel like a half squashed cylinder - think the inside of a toilet paper roll squashed to about half the diameter. When the first layer is going down - run your finger over it and if it feels like it is round on the top it is too high you can either adjust the bed physically or via the slicer you are using. The print bed should be as up around 85 minimum - mine runs at 95oC - if the printer is enclosed make sure it is covered as much as possible and away from breeze, even running air con in the room can ruin a print. The picture looks like the part on top of the thin plate came away from the bottom and it's all just crazy string from there. This would have happened once the thin plat starts to lift and the layer on top is no longer in contact with the layer below it. Hope some of this helps. cheers
  8. Hi MVM, That is a handy feature - doesn't seem to be in the XT Plus firmware. I love the Aluminum bed, when I broke the glass one I took it to a local fabrication shop and got hem them to cut a piece of aluminum plate and drill the holes using the glass as a template. I am happy as well, the Bowden tube style is a little different but the print results have been good for the most part. cheers
  9. Hi MVM, Good post. I too only bought my Mankati this year - I bought the plus in August and it has not stopped working since. I had the fortune of having a Printrbot plus (I just realized I must have a thing for printers with Plus in the name) and decided to go for the dual nozzle because I hate removing support material and wanted to print dissoluble support.I have yet to realise that dream as I just haven't had time to tune the dual nozzle experience to my satisfaction. My experience with the Mankati is similar to mine with the Printrbot when I got it, joy when it works well and frustration when it doesn't. That is the tech in it's infancy I guess. I changed my print bed to an aluminum plate because I broke the glass one and much prefer a metal plate to glass - it mean I can give it a solid tap when I need to remove parts. I use glue stick exclusively now - tried the ABS glue, hair spray, Kapton tape etc. I found a glue stick in a cheap $2 store that work perfectly - I now buy up all there stock when it comes in. I agree with the LED light comment - for Xmas I was given a Wurth LED torch with a magnetic base that now sits proudly shining down on the plate - works a treat. Things I would change, I was just ranting about this last night - a smooth path from filament spool to the nozzle - there are so many areas where the filament when feeding a new role gets hung up - it amazes me that these metal parts have not been machined to present no obstacle to the filament. I probably change the roll of filament daily (differ colours and types of filament depending on the job) and this is my biggest gripe so far. I have printed ABS, PLA, Nylon and Flexible Nylon. My other issue was changing nozzles - was having a lot of blocked nozzles in the beginning - more than I ever had on the Printrbot and removing the nozzle and replacing is very painful. I would like to be able to regularly change the nozzle to different diameter ones depending on the job but this is too hard on this machine.Glad I found guitar wire and now I use Nylon to purge the nozzle between materials. Did you keep a record of all the hours or is there something in the firmware I am missing? I think my Printrbot gives better consistent prints but that is because it has had 3 years of fine tuning. I think the Mankati will get there but will take some more tweaking. I am happy with the printer and without it I would never have kept up with the prints. Cheers
  10. Carbon Fibre Filament

    Hi All, I am looking to print some parts in Carbon Fibre filament but am concerned about how much wear this will have on the stock XT Plus nozzles. Anyone have experience in printing with carbon fiber, is it as bad as they say for wear on the nozzle? Does anyone know of anyone selling compatible hardened nozzles that would fit the XT plus? Cheers
  11. Hi, I did the same thing with my XT Plus and replaced it with a piece of aluminum plate, no more broken glass. To reattach the heat bed I bought some high temp gasket glue (used for exhaust manifolds) from the hardware store and just glued it back on. Cheers
  12. Dreaded Clicking Noise

    Hi All, Thanks for the replies much appreciated. I agree the filament feeder is a definite weak point in the system.For me it looks like the filament was to blame. I have 4 rolls from one supplier that just will not print. Changed to esun and it prints like a dream, I have printed 6x 1Kg rolls since without a hiccup. Well besides the filament snapping at the feeder which I blame PLA for. cheers Kerry
  13. ABS cracking/layer adhesion problem

    https://youtu.be/POaL2GGBHGM Hi Michael, I would have been surprised if you had the same issue, The youtube link (I don't think the one I linked to previously worked) is actually not a bad process to try and find the right filament temp. Colour will definitely play a part in finding the right temp, pretty much every roll is potentially going to be different. cheers Kerry
  14. ABS cracking/layer adhesion problem

    Hi Michael, i have had this effect once but it was caused by being at the end of a roll of filament and because the filament was so tightly wound on the spool it wasnt extruding correctly. Cheers
  15. Dreaded Clicking Noise

    Hi Michael, Thanks for the suggestion. That can definitely cause the filament to jam,the first probably 10 layers up to 40 or 50 go down well then the horror begins. cheers