Jump to content

Rexfreund

Members
  • Content count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Rexfreund last won the day on October 9 2015

Rexfreund had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

1 Follower

About Rexfreund

  • Rank
    Member
  1. Upgrade to E3D V6 hot ends

    Hi David, on my XT Plus I have only changed the new E3D Thremistor with the old one. I have nothing changed in the parameters and the Temperatur of the Extruder reflects the roomtemperature as the heatbed says, too. may be that the higher temperatur is different, but the filament temperatur is mostly different from the manufacturers value. Klaus
  2. Upgrade to E3D V6 hot ends

    Hello David, i have bought the 24V version but i don't have used the Heatingcartridge. I have mounted the original as it. only the Termistor is changed to e3d. On this picture of the Maniboard I think the 24V path go to the heater. greeting Klaus
  3. one picture, says more as thousend words. so a big scrap
  4. Warping problems and solutions

    Hi There, i have bought a 3D-Lac Spray and i use it on the original printingbed for all prints without warping. PLA with 50-55° C and ABS with 90-105°C Nylon with 80° C The best results with PLA i got with the filament from the german company OrbiTech (OrbiTech) The Cambox is printed with 0,16 mm Layer with transparent blue PLA
  5. Hi Gays, in my XT-Plus the Boundtech Extruder steps need to set 497,5. The best way to get the perfect steps is, remove the PTE hose from the Bondtech. Place a mark on the filament and spend 100 mm of them. Mesure the real spended filament and kalkulate the needed steps. Klaus
  6. ABS Printing woes

    Hi There, printing ABS is not other as with PLA but you need other Temperatur and a hot Printbed. Wich Printer, what slicer did you use ? please show me your GCode File what your Slicer have produced. Greetings Klaus
  7. Heres a poser for you....

    If the left and the middle Part at the same hight ? Have you print the parts from left to right a row ? Have you changed the original ramps of the z-axis Can you post the Gcode, may be it is problem with the speed from the z-axis Greetings Klaus
  8. Please help with choise!

    Hello Ivan! When I consider what I want to touch the printer already had to make it work properly. Bearing clearance, undersized axis, bonded print heads, worn-out filament transport. etc. This in the first 6 months of operation. He is at best half the price value I can not recommend the Mankati! I've certainly additionally invested approx 600.- € in the printer. (Have a look at my postings) The FlashForge looks like a bit more stable, but i have not found any description about the firmware. The Printer is listed in Simplify 3D, too. A good thing is, that the extruder is short to the Printhead when you use flexible materials and the three point bedmount. A not so good Thing is the non standard printhead (E3D) and i don't see wich bearing are mounted. Greetings Klaus
  9. Stable Printhead Carrier

    Your problem was one of the arguments to change to E3D-V6 printheads. My Printhead carrier is based on Mankati but it is a little larger. The IGUS bearing has 16mm diameter outside and on original head carrier the distance to the nut from the head is to small. The new 8 mm axis have been on both sides honed to 6 mm pins and they are led to a page in the original bearingblock strained and the other as a floating bearing. Oh yes, there are any better printers as Mankati and the price is not very higher. But as I have bought my printer I did not expect so little to obtain equivalent value. The appended PDF of my carrier is a 3d pdf, this needs the Adobe Viewer. Cheers Träger Neu.pdf
  10. Hi Guys, Talk you about the Fullscale XT or over the Fullscale XT PLUS ? On my XT PlUS the Printhead was replaced in a short time whithout any problems! Cheers Klaus
  11. Stable Printhead Carrier

    Hi Guys, i show you here my new much more stable printhead Carrier with IGUS drylin® linear bearing. (no more Oil over the Printing area) The bearing are saved by a small washer (but it is not realy needed) Upgraded at a 8 mm honed carbide axis. My head design allows you to remove the Printhead complete with the kabel. And finaly the PTFE hose is fixed in high quality Festo parts. Greetings, Klaus
  12. PRINTER DO NOT START PRINTING

    Take it ease There are days, where you lose and there are days, that are other winner!
  13. PRINTER DO NOT START PRINTING

    in your not working file yout print on the right extruder but with no temperatur M109 T1 S0 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line in the workingfile you print with the left Extruder with 230° M109 T0 S230 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
  14. PRINTER DO NOT START PRINTING

    Hi stephano did your old file also include the ";Cura_Profile_String" at the end of the GCode File? This is a very big comment maybe the Printer stalls on them cheers Klaus
  15. aligning the print bed

    Hello, thanks for your kind feedback! I have use it only to leveling my printbed. The distanz from the Nozzle to the printbed is set by a 0,05 mm gauge value and then i set the offset for the nozzle to 0,2 mm. But the result of the leveling is very bad, i have over 0,3 mm deviation ! At the for corners the distanz is even the same. In Y direction the instrument pointer goes to more then 0,3 mm and in the X direction is not better. By these mesurement i have found that one linear bearings in the printhead holder have 0,2 mm clearance. I think, the bearings are very cheep. My Printer is only 1/2 year old. An other bad thing is that the 6 mm axis is to weak for a 3mm Filament. When the filament is moved toward the printhead the printhead goes few 1/100 mm to the printbed and comes back when the Filament pulls back. I plan to change the 6 mm axis to 8 mm, but the Headholder must be change, too... let us see ;-) greetings Klaus
×