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About ToliyK

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  1. Unstable temperatures

    Hello. It sounds like a thermocouple issue but, given that you have replaced yours with a Mankati replacement; I would double check connections. I recently did have the same issue as you were describing. I ended up replacing the whole extruder assembly, I needed to replace the whole thing anyway. That solved the issue for me. I wanna post the steps I did in a new topic sometime soon. My motherboard (Mb) is not in great shape either but, it's working. I found that you can prolong the life of it Mb: you follow those steps. Preheat components separately. I preheat the bed first, than one or both of the extruders. Found an interesting article regarding the temperature fluctuation in extruder. That may give you more info. https://hackaday.com/2017/12/15/thermistors-and-3d-printing/
  2. Unstable temperatures

    David, Nice write up! Im afraid im having the same issue (Mankati XT) as you were. Im on my second circuit board for my printer looks like im replacing them every 1.5 years. Have you considered other options when changing your mother board? Im currently looking at Rambo 24V board. Is this something relatively decent to use for this printer? Right now the printer is 1660 hours deep and components starting to fail on it. 1) screen died at 1300 hours, replaced with a rep-rap one 2)1580 hours, Main extruder PTFE tube clogged, possible tear in the PTFE tubing, extruder removed completely. Ordered XT plus extruder unit 3)1660 hours Temperature fluctuation +/- 10 degrees. Never happened before, my guess its the main board just cooking itself. On the side note i found a good method to prolong the life of the main board. Instead of heating everything at once i heat the bed first than once the bed is up to temperature, i heat both of the nozzles. This eases the amp draw on the board. High amp draw causes the connectors between the power supply and the + terminal on the board to basically melt. So going back to the issue. Any advice on replacement main board? Thank you.
  3. A quick and dirty solution is to preheat your second extruder to the same temperature.
  4. Layers Shifting

    After opening the STL and saving as a part file and than saving it back to STL i was hoping that this would eliminate any software glitches. It did not I Printed (base lower) @15mm/s initial and 50 mm/s final and it failed again. The next step would be to try the same file on a Prusa i3 that i built a few months back to see if the issue reoccurs. Another option is to redesign the file from scratch and try to print it that way. Toliy.
  5. Hello all, I have a Mankati fullscale XT. I been printing on it for about 2+ years. Recently i have decided to build a drone, so i needed a frame. I went to thingiverse and downloaded Hovership's STL files. Basically i printed the (clean upper) file at 15mm/s initial and 100mm/s upper layers with no problem (printed a set of 2 in 1 job) The second file i tried (base lower) file @15mm/s initial and 100mm/s final (printed 2 in 1 job). Layers shifted about 1.25 to the right and it was just a huge mess. It was not the first time that happened. So, i figured the software got all confused, because of too many details i was asking of it. Maybe i made it print too fast. Ok, fine. I reset the job and printed again with 15mm/s initial and 70mm/s final. Same thing happened. This time i uploaded a single item. I did not print 2 copies of the same job. Basically the print failed because the layers shifted settings were the same, 15mm/s initial and 100mm/s final. The next step would be to check the file itself by importing it into a 3d modeling software. I will also try to slow the print speed way down. I really do not think this will help. I think is something with the file itself. If anyone has any tips.... Thanks!
  6. Good habits for 3D printing

    Hello all, After long hours of printing i found that filament may slip and not extrude properly. The cause, is that little filament particles gunk up the gear of the feed motor, causing it to slip. I found that it is good practice to clean the cog gear on the filament extruder step motor when changing filament. Doing so prevents filament from slipping and not extruding properly. The only way to do it is to jog the extruder motor without the filament. Using a steel or brass brush clean the teeth as the gear rotates. You only need 1 rotation of the gear to get everything out. The motor will not jog without the nozzle heated up. I found it best to keep the nozzle at printing temperature. This allows me to jog the motor and instantly feed new filament. Cheers.