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How to upgrade the Mankati Fullscale XT nozzles to Plus

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dipicorg    3

Hi James
I ordered some 4.5x3.5mm PTFE Tubing (10m for 27US$) from China and printed a new Fanholder for the Hotends. The real Problem I observed is that the second Fan begins also to blow against the first one after it reached 40°C. This reduces the Cooling to nearly no Effect and heats up the Room between the two Hotends letting PLA flowing up to the 'Gap' between the Heatbreak and the Tubing.
I removed the two 25mm Fans and replaced them with one 40mm Fan in between the two Hotends from the Front. This solved my Problems with (especially PLA) and I didn't had any Problems since then. If You are interested in the *Fanholder, here is the STL of it:  http://www.dipic.org/FANSHROUD.stl  and the Design: http://www.dipic.org/FANSHROUD.123dx

tell me what You think about it.The 40mm Fans are very cheap and effective.

kind Regards
 Christian

 

* removed from Page...

Edited by dipicorg

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SGS    0

Greetings All,

I have a question, not sure if this thread or maybe a new one will do but here goes.

 

The new Mankati hot ends, are they just a modified E3D v6 or another proprietary nozzle like the Fullscale XT has. If  not which is better the Mankati nozzle or the E3D v6 hot ends.. I was thinking I would upgrade my two XT fs to the XT plus but noticed the nozzle are very different than the E3D v6 nozzle on the market. I need stainless steel nozzle. 

Anyone clear up this?

Cheers,

SGS

Edited by SGS

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Erik    0

Hello All,

I've just finished upgrading my printer and thought I would share some extra information from my experience as it may help some people.

Firstly: Thanks James Armstrong for posting the instructions these were very useful.

Gantry dis-assembly and re-assembly

I found that I could keep two of the flanged bearings in place. By not removing the X-Axis guide rail above the X and Y motors I could tilt down the rest of the mechanism instead of sliding the whole gantry down. This keeps the rails away from the motors and keeps the motor belts in place. At the very least this saves removing and replacing 4 of the machine screws.

When removing the nuts from the bearings I found many of them fairly loose. This is probably not a big deal as the gantry is held in place by some tension anyway and the holes in the casing are quite tight. Regardless I changed the nuts to be Nyloc type nuts so they can't loosen in future. If you're looking to so the same the thread is M3. When putting it back together I found some of the nuts very hard to access so I simply inverted the screws: head on the inside nut on the outside. This is not as neat by makes things much easier.

Material Feeder Hose Connection

My machine had a different hose connection for the material feeder. The hoses on the new head come with a compression nut to suit this connector: http://store.mankati.com/collections/accessories/products/tube-connector?variant=6546209541

However my machine has this connection on the Feeder motors: http://store.mankati.com/collections/accessories/products/feeding-tube-connector?variant=6547455749

So this is something to be aware of. If you're purchasing the new head check the feeder type first and maybe spend the extra $2 for the correct attachment if needed. I recycled my tube connectors but the old tubes were very hard to remove. I had to tie a prusik knot around the tube to be able to apply enough force as they're so slippery. On the new hoses I hard to cut off the flared section at the end, I also chamfered the inside of the hose with a chamfer drill bit to make sure I can pass filament through easily when changing materials.

Connections

I'll have to disagree here with James on the Turbo fan connection. My new head kit came with a connector for the Fan 3 port so this is where I connected it. It's very important to note that the HE3 connection is 24V and the fan is only 12V rated. This means if you use the HE3 connection for the fan you're applying four times the power to the fan. This will result is a shortened life of the fan but more air flow.

Maybe James knows something I don't? The Fan is brush-less so maybe the controller inside can manage this but the sticker on it says 12V so that's what I'm going with.

There are 5 connections with the same 2-pin connector with red &black wiring so this can get confusing. If you're trying to work it out: The fan connections use the smaller gauge wire compared to the temperature sensors. Also the polarity is different between the fans and temperature sensors so that's another good way to check. I powered the fans from an independent supply before assembly and labeled the wires accordingly. You could also run the cables down to the controller board and plug them into FAN3, this connection is always on (no MOSFET) so an easy check. The LED1 port can also be used.

Turbo Fan Bracket

I fastened the Turbo fan to the printed bracket with some double sided tape. I'm not sure what others are using? My bracket supplied is quite roughly printed in clear PLA so I might re-print this in ABS later. I got the STL from Mankati support as attached.

Settings

I've noticed some talk on this thread about material clogging and that you shouldn't feed filament through too fast accordingly. Something I've noticed on my machine is that the steps/mm are not set that well. I have a 800Zstep/mm machine but I've had to adjust this to 787.6 to get my parts to print to the correct dimensions. This adjustment goes for the extruder motors too: I have Estep/mm set to 585 instead of the default 600. This may not sound too bad but with the old setting it means I would be extruding 2.5% more material than I should. This equates to setting the flow to 102.5% or putting in a material diameter that's too small. Wear on the feeding clog may also effect this value.

Please don't just copy my settings for this, instead check your machine. The extruders are easy, just remove the tube and extrude a set amount of material using the menus. Adjust the value accordingly to the percentage of error. The more material you extrude and measure and more accurate it will be. You can do the Z,X and Y axis in much the same way.

 

Regards,

Erik

3-feet turbo fan holder20151109.STL

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hdc    0
On 12/4/2015 at 8:53 PM, Erik said:

Hello All,

I've just finished upgrading my printer and thought I would share some extra information from my experience as it may help some people.

Firstly: Thanks James Armstrong for posting the instructions these were very useful.

Gantry dis-assembly and re-assembly

I found that I could keep two of the flanged bearings in place. By not removing the X-Axis guide rail above the X and Y motors I could tilt down the rest of the mechanism instead of sliding the whole gantry down. This keeps the rails away from the motors and keeps the motor belts in place. At the very least this saves removing and replacing 4 of the machine screws.

When removing the nuts from the bearings I found many of them fairly loose. This is probably not a big deal as the gantry is held in place by some tension anyway and the holes in the casing are quite tight. Regardless I changed the nuts to be Nyloc type nuts so they can't loosen in future. If you're looking to so the same the thread is M3. When putting it back together I found some of the nuts very hard to access so I simply inverted the screws: head on the inside nut on the outside. This is not as neat by makes things much easier.

Material Feeder Hose Connection

My machine had a different hose connection for the material feeder. The hoses on the new head come with a compression nut to suit this connector: http://store.mankati.com/collections/accessories/products/tube-connector?variant=6546209541

However my machine has this connection on the Feeder motors: http://store.mankati.com/collections/accessories/products/feeding-tube-connector?variant=6547455749

So this is something to be aware of. If you're purchasing the new head check the feeder type first and maybe spend the extra $2 for the correct attachment if needed. I recycled my tube connectors but the old tubes were very hard to remove. I had to tie a prusik knot around the tube to be able to apply enough force as they're so slippery. On the new hoses I hard to cut off the flared section at the end, I also chamfered the inside of the hose with a chamfer drill bit to make sure I can pass filament through easily when changing materials.

Connections

I'll have to disagree here with James on the Turbo fan connection. My new head kit came with a connector for the Fan 3 port so this is where I connected it. It's very important to note that the HE3 connection is 24V and the fan is only 12V rated. This means if you use the HE3 connection for the fan you're applying four times the power to the fan. This will result is a shortened life of the fan but more air flow.

Maybe James knows something I don't? The Fan is brush-less so maybe the controller inside can manage this but the sticker on it says 12V so that's what I'm going with.

There are 5 connections with the same 2-pin connector with red &black wiring so this can get confusing. If you're trying to work it out: The fan connections use the smaller gauge wire compared to the temperature sensors. Also the polarity is different between the fans and temperature sensors so that's another good way to check. I powered the fans from an independent supply before assembly and labeled the wires accordingly. You could also run the cables down to the controller board and plug them into FAN3, this connection is always on (no MOSFET) so an easy check. The LED1 port can also be used.

Turbo Fan Bracket

I fastened the Turbo fan to the printed bracket with some double sided tape. I'm not sure what others are using? My bracket supplied is quite roughly printed in clear PLA so I might re-print this in ABS later. I got the STL from Mankati support as attached.

Settings

I've noticed some talk on this thread about material clogging and that you shouldn't feed filament through too fast accordingly. Something I've noticed on my machine is that the steps/mm are not set that well. I have a 800Zstep/mm machine but I've had to adjust this to 787.6 to get my parts to print to the correct dimensions. This adjustment goes for the extruder motors too: I have Estep/mm set to 585 instead of the default 600. This may not sound too bad but with the old setting it means I would be extruding 2.5% more material than I should. This equates to setting the flow to 102.5% or putting in a material diameter that's too small. Wear on the feeding clog may also effect this value.

Please don't just copy my settings for this, instead check your machine. The extruders are easy, just remove the tube and extrude a set amount of material using the menus. Adjust the value accordingly to the percentage of error. The more material you extrude and measure and more accurate it will be. You can do the Z,X and Y axis in much the same way.

 

Regards,

Erik

3-feet turbo fan holder20151109.STL

I am having a problem as to which fan port to set my fans to. I'm not quite sure as to how the fans should operate. Should the heat sink fans be on constantly or should the turbo fan be on constantly or intermitent? I was told by mankati to connect fan2 wire to fan 3 port and connect the turbo fan to fan 2 port. When i do that the turbo fan runs constant. but if i disconnect fan 2 from fan port 3 the turbo fan work as it should (i told it in my slicer to turn on at 0.5mm).

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dipicorg    3

The Heatsink-Fans start spinning when 40°C are reached... The Turbo-Fan is only used for delicate Filament like PLA (or even for PETG), which needs cooling when printing... It's that easy. ABS does not need the Turbo-Fan. It can disconnect the Part from the Bed when using the Turbo-Fan on ABS...

Edited by dipicorg
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hdc    0
On 9/10/2017 at 1:44 AM, dipicorg said:

The Heatsink-Fans start spinning when 40°C are reached... The Turbo-Fan is only used for delicate Filament like PLA (or even for PETG), which needs cooling when printing... It's that easy. ABS does not need the Turbo-Fan. It can disconnect the Part from the Bed when using the Turbo-Fan on ABS...

Thanks.

Mankati support told me to move my fan 2 to the fan 3 port on the board and put my turbo fan on the fan 2 port on the board. I tried this and the turbo fan runs constantly. I also noticed after my upgrade, when i used simplify3d it heats up the correct extruder but moves the wrong filament feeder motor. Any suggestions?

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