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Printer: Mankati Fullscale XT Plus

Printed by; Mithila

Many thanks Mithila for sharing his printing with us.

For this heart gear: layer : 0.2 mmm, flow rate: 78%, printing speed: 40%

Mithila explained, it caused bade surface when flow rate reached 100%. 

IMG_0898.thumb.jpg.abd058b2dbff7619bf6cfIMG_0899.thumb.jpg.49ddf2bf797c498fb466c

 

 

 

Edited by Mankati Family

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9Tail    1

Here is a metal casting case. (Printer: Fullscale XT Plus)

Step 1, ABS 3D print mold.

abs_mold.thumb.jpg.8541f1448eb4ce85d90b1

Step 2, Use ABS mold to cast ceramic molds.

ceramic_molds.thumb.jpg.b6e10a271c7d6859

Step 3, Use ceramic mold for metal casting.

aluminum.thumb.jpg.48bec1b8f1215ebc072bd

 

 

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seadog    5

Hi All,

Thought you might be interested in a slightly different use of a printed part. I am currently working on a largish model of the German aerobatic aircraft, the Xtremeair XA41, ( google it and you will see that it would pose difficulties in the normal method of carving wooden patterns), so that is why I turned to the use of 3D printing, and why I selected the Mankati because all the patterns for the fuselage that would normally have been carved from wood will now be made from large sections printed in PLA and cemented together with balsa cement, filled and then prepared for moulding in the normal way.

The cost of plastic will be about 1/3 the cost of jelutong timber and the saving in trying to get an accurate and symmetrical pattern is enormous.

So much for that, the photo is of the upper plugs for engine cylinder cooling ducts printed in ABS. The plan is to do a bit of cleaning of the outside surfaces then cast the cloth directly onto the plastic. After the casting has cured I will use an acetone bath to dissolve/soften the ABS and remove it leaving just the completed composite moulding.

cheers

Seadog

DSC00761.JPG

Cooling ducts.jpg

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Michael    0

Would doing the same in HIPS be OK (better)?.........HIPS has same printing specs as ABS and dissolves in D-limonene (cleaning fluid).......which might be more gentle and cheaper fluid to use then Acetone.     

Cheers

Edited by Michael

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seadog    5

Yes Michael, D-Limonene would be 'safer' but I have been using acetone for years now and understand it fairly well.

Has anyone used the HIPS/ D-Limonene process? I know that ABS/Acetone will work reasonably quickly and it is easily obtainable. Just as an experiment I have tried HIPS in a 10% D-Limonene solution, it has had NO effect. Of course the pure stuff would be different but I don't want to have to wait days for the process to occur.

When I checked just now the price of Acetone was $40/4 litre and D-Limonene $89/5 litre. A bit of a difference!

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seadog    5

Let you know how I go. This type of process makes available shapes that would be impractical by normal means. I am just sorry that I was born 20 or 30 years too early!!

  • Like 1

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9Tail    1

I only could find D-limonene with purity 90%+ in local market. Heavy orange smell.

_1280006.thumb.jpg.41a7ca530bf47c8a933be_1280064.thumb.jpg.7d257699c11c27ab2278a_1280067s.thumb.jpg.2825e692f6f84f299dd4

_1280076.thumb.jpg.5bb29fb2eae265cd62ca0 

 

Edited by 9Tail

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9Tail    1

The hips start to dissolve in first 3 hours but still in high viscosity. The cup was too small, so I placed it overnight. Totally more than 12 hours. 

 

The model is organized by 3 balls.

 

Edited by 9Tail

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Hi Everyone! 

I snapped a quick video of a print I'm completing tonight with my upgraded Full-scale XT (Plus hotends).

This is a 1.5 hour print. The fourth today, and I'm ever so happy with the output. The XT continues to whip out great looking functional prints one after the other. 

Printing with Esun Gold PLA. 

 

Kind regards,

James Armstrong.

 

File_000.mov

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mvm    12

Here is one of mine, one of my first prints:

Printed in white ABS, 0.2mm layer, temp 255. Don't remember the speed.

Don't print much with ABS any more, most times I manage to convince people to use PETG instead, works much better.

 

carconsolecover1.jpg

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