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Nylon filament keeps warping

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mvm    12

I am trying to print an object (T-profile) in Nylon but it keeps warping from the printbed.
Material used is a (new) spool of Taulman 645
The object needs to be printed pretty solid (50% infill) to give it some strength,but it keeps getting loose from the printbed after about an hour or so of printing

Have tried tape+glue, 3D Lac, printed it with a heated bed from 45C all the way up to 80 C but it keeps getting loose.
I have printed nylon before, but never an object this large (total printtime about 10 hours).

Any suggestions to get this right?

profiel1.jpg

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NickP    7

Hi mvm,

I haven't printed with nylon so this could be way off, but when ABS is warping and nothing is working I either print with a raft or put the object up on mouse ears so that there is a chunky amount of support material underneath to help stop warping.

Nylon generally doesn't stick to much so I imagine it is pretty hard to get it to stay on the bed.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Cheers

Nick

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mvm    12

Hi Nick,

Thank you for the reply. I am already printing it with a raft, but so far no luck.

My other nylon prints were not as big and had a little more footprint and a different surface/mass ratio.

But any help is welcome,

 

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NickP    7

Hi mvm,

Are you printing it as seen in the pic?

Maybe flip it on its side so you are not dealing with a large flat surface?

Just an idea.

profiel1.jpg.012186828700b682286edbac007c6210.jpg

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mvm    12

Hoi Nick,

Thank you for the suggestion but YES, I am printing it on its side. Otherwise I would need a lot of support and nylon seems to be a far too flimsy support material (moves too much IMHO).

 

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Seamongrel    3

Hi MVM,

For a start, your bed temp is too low. It should be at least 95-100c for larger nylon prints.

Next to no fans onto the part itself.

Use Elmers extreme glue stick on the bed. Apply three times with each pass on the glass at a different angle.

But I think your problem is in the bed itself. You say that you have had no problems before when printing smaller parts in nylon., which leads me to think that your glass bed is not completely flat.

Grab yourself a 300mm steel ruler. with the ruler on it edge, run it across the glass while looking to see if the glass is flat. I would say that the glass tapers off as you get out towards the edges.

I think you'll find that is your problem.

 

Mongrel.

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mvm    12

Hi Seamongrel,

Thank your the time you took to respond. 

My printbed is indedd not 100% flat, the difference is however very small (my estimate would be something like 0.1 mm between the centre and the corners). I have printed many parts as long as 280 mm diagonally across the bed without problems (though not in Nylon).

I haven't tried it with a heated bed as high as 90 degrees yet, didn't go any higher than about 80 degrees so far.

Last night I printed it again on blue tape with elmers glue and a very wide raft. This seem to go ok and in the morning the print was finished.
I then took it off and to my surprise a few hours later, it looks like the print as shrunk onto itself. 

Am not sure what is causing this. Perhaps the high infill (50%) together with the fact that it is a very narrow high-walled object has something to do with it.

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mvm    12

Hi MVM,

can you post a pic of the print that has "shrunk onto itself"

Mongrel.

I am not sure of myself, but here are two pictures. The first is off the print just finished on the printer, the second after I removed the raft and how it was this evening.

 

 

Model1.jpg

Model2.jpg

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Seamongrel    3

MVM,

Did you have the fans on?

I print directly onto the glass with the glue stick applied. I found that printing onto the blue tape, it still can lift slightly.

 

Mongrel.

 

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mvm    12

No, I never use the fans with Nylon (nor with ABS). With PETG I sometimes use them a little.
It's only with PLA that I really use the fans.

 

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3dbelanger    0

if that can help i have printed alot with nylon 680/910 and bridge . i set my print nozzle temp to 245c  and my bed to 60c print speed to 45mm/s -  35mm/s retraction to 6mm at 80 mm/s  . im applying the glue stick when the bed is hot to get a better even coating  . for nylon part i dont use raft, a prefer using a skirt/brim lets say 30 mm extend from the part  to resolve the corner lifting  and its give a better finish surface .i dont use tabe i for nylon because the tension make the tape lift. another thing before printing i using the oven set at 180c and dry my filament for 3 hours  to get the moisture out really better print . the cool thing with nylon you can get really nice print at 200 micron saving time for large part and still have a good finish. after trying and testing this steps save me to print my quadcopter part 20 hours prints and so .

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mvm    12

Hi 3dbelanger,

Thanks for the print. I am not sure if Nylon 680/910 print the same as 645. From what I understand, 645 is the strongest but also the most difficult to print.
I agree with the nylon lifting the tape from the bed, that's what happened the last time I printed this part using a raft with a 20 mm circumference.

How do you get your filament heated to 180 degrees without the spool melting or warping??
I dried my spool aat 80 degrees and the spool already starts warping. But I agree that when dried, Nylon can print very nicely.

Maybe I should get me a spool of 618 spool and try that :)

 

 

 

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3dbelanger    0

hi mvm for me 910 is pretty srong its alsmost a muscle training to remove the brim, i dont think its a huge difference from 910 to 645 strenght wise im using the 910 for part hard stressed parts.

for the oven sorry i was meaning 180 f  not 180 c  at this temp the spool on my side stay good the only thing is the filament unroll a little . i did also the dryier from the taulman web site this is working well, its longer but is working. also me now in montreal its winter so no more need to dry. the humidity level is very low because we heating the house . its easy to print in winter .

i think i will try the 645 what i can get from it.

thanks

here is the link of my quadcopter made with nylon/petg and print with mankati fullscale xt plus if you want see

 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8DJYwwr8Wg&feature=youtu.be

 

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