Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Joe

new to Mankati and various problems

Recommended Posts

Joe    1

Hello together

I just got my Mankati fullscale plus for xmas and happily started printing with it. Just a few remarks from good old Europe ;-)

1. The machine is installed within a few hours (1-2) - easy nice a clean
2. at the beginning everything is working fine - also very nice

but after a few weeks it started to getting real nasty

1. clogging of the extruders started increasing and getting very annoying special during night on long print jobs - cleaning of nozzle (and replacing see below) didn't changed the problem
2. the chrome of the sliders seems to get worn out - at least they are getting black - just cleaned then and added a few drops of oil before every printjob
3. the light is a mess - replaced it with several LED strips - costs about 3 CHF - why is this not part of the initial printer (also put a switch before the LED if no light is needed) - additional 2 CHF
4. if the fan is running 100% the hotend doesn't get over 180° C - will replace it with e3d V6 Hotends
5. replacing one nozzle (originally delivered by mankati) it seems that this nozzle is 0.3mm longer than the original installed so this nozzle started to scratch over the already  printed parts
6. Put my bed at a Laser device and it looks like a roller-coaster - lucky me I ordered a 2nd one which was better- only 0.2mm ups and downs  
7. the switch of the print bed initial was installed to high - so when the printer was running a while the print-bed un-adjusted itself - means the screws changed - moving the endstop a few mm down changed this - but be carefully not to tighten them to much as it might brake the printbed  - with 4 screws it will produce a lot of tension on the bed if the screws are not tighten equally

I now decided to replace the extruder by 2 bulldog XL and the hotend by two e3d V6 - hope this helps

by any chance has somebody the information how the wiring on the mainboard looks like - found a similar mainboard in the internet where the connector was labeled as

1A - 1B - 2B - 2A

is that correct - the Bulldog Extruder only has cables an no plug ;-) if someone has the right structure it would be very helpful.

overall Mankati Fullscale even for the low price is not a bargain and special if you are looking for high quality prints it needs a lot of work (money) and patience to get there

kind regards

Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RogerSt    0

Hi Joe

 

I also have my Mankaiy Full-scale Plus since december 2015. I do not have any problems with clogging.

Thinly thing i have done: change the extruder with bondtech extruders. 

Please tell me, how the printer is working after change to e3d v6 hotness.

 

In future, i plan to change a part of the extruders and replace the hot ends. I want to change to 1.75 filament, because some other of my printer use 1.5 filament.

 

Because of the price or the led stripes, you must be from switzerland. Where you exactly from? I am from Zürich.

 

Kind Regard

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
seadog    5

Hello Joe,

I too went through the sort of frustrations that you are experiencing but I have to say, with the vast experience of 12 months use (ho ho :D), that most of your problems will probably stem from operator induced causes.

I can only suggest that you study the posts of some of our more experienced members and apply some of their suggestions. It can be a steep learning curve but it will become easier when you understand just what it is that you are trying to make that little hot nozzle do.

After a bit of work there will be a buildup of filament on the inside of the feeder tube ( because the tube is quite warm and some filament will stick) again this can be caused partly due to incorrect settings. It is a good idea to clean this out regularly. I unscrew the the bowden cable fitting off the main body and push an ordinary wooden keebab skewer (they are about 3mm dia) down the tube and twist it around a bit and that seems to work OK.

Bye the way the black oil on the main supporting rods is not wear, just the oil doing its'job. A few people have commented about uneven length nozzles, I haven't had that problem so can't comment but I would advise against trying to adjust them by loosening one off, that will lead to filament leaking down the loosened thread. What did become apparent to me was that the mere action of tightening the feeder bodies into the main carriage can cause the feeder body to move vertically due to the action of the screw on the body and the slight amount of clearance in the main body. I have inserted shims to limit this and have since had no problems in this regard.

With respect to your comment on the uneven build plate I have commented elsewhere on this. I consider that a factor here is the incongruity of adjusting an apparently rigid plate with four corner screws, one can have a situation similar to a table with one short leg! I would venture to suggest that most problems with uneven beds is that the four screws are fighting one another. My solution to this was to convert to a three point support (which is described elsewhere in this section..I think). Since doing this adjustment is a breeze. in fact when starting a new print I will, after doing an initial leveling, start the print with four or five Outline/Perimeter Shells (in Simplify3D) and fine tune the nozzle height as they are being printed. The three point system doesn't impose any cross stresses on the plate and I find now. after six months or so of use that waviness in the bed is no longer an issue.

For extra lighting I use a study lamp, mine is an EPSILON LED DESK LAMP. Apart from being useful when working on maintenance I set it up to shine across the bed at the start of a print to see how evenly the filament is being laid. Works well.

Try not to cast around for too many outside 'fixes' the Mankati basically is a solid unit, maybe not as 'polished' as some of its' competitors but properly managed as good as any. Having said that mine now has been converted to 'Plus' standard with Bontech extruders ( with the later easy release conversion which I LOVE...nice work Martin). No more grinding and I can now use up all the end lengths of filament again.

Hang in there Joe!

Bye

Seadog

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mvm    12

Hi Joe,


Just reading your post and am interested in how you changed the hotends to the e3d V6?

Did you have to change anything on the printhead.

Can you enlighten me (us) a bit on how you did this. And do you consider the upgrade worthwhile.?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rexfreund    2

Hi Guys,

I have converted my XT plus on E3D V6. The conversion, if one can call this so is very easy.
The wires to the temperature sensor to cut and connect with a tiny bit of renewal, the E3D accompanying temperature sensors.
The radiators are identical in construction, I have these reconnected only in the new heating block.
The fans I've only screwed into the holder of E3D.

That's it ....

so far no problem with clogged nozzle or so.

Greetings Klaus

Hallo Leute,
ich habe meinen XT plus auf E3D V6 umgerüstet. Der Umbau soweit man dies so bezeichnen kann, ist sehr einfach.
Die Drähte zum Temperatursensor abschneiden und mit ein klein wenig Verlängerung die dem E3D beiliegenden Temperatursensoren anschliessen.
Die Heizkörper sind Baugleich, ich habe diese nur in den neuen Heizblock umgesteckt.
Die Ventilatoren habe ich nur in die Halterung des E3D geschraubt.

Das wars....

bisher kein problem mit verstopfter Düse oder so.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Joe    1

to all

 

thaks a lot to the replies - highly appreciate them - just a few answers

1. I'm from Switzerland (Aargau) but work in Zürich

to Seadog
2. the rulers are getting black due to the fact that the chrome is poor quality - black oil can be wiped away
3. the uneven plate - it is NOT caused by the four screws - I measured the plate on my 3D drill with a micrometer (so without screws) and the plate if wavy for about 0.3mm if you got 0.4mm Nozzle that is to much !
4. the clogging is caused by the hotend which is quite unstable in the temperature - seems that the vent at the background is cooling to much and the measurement of the temperature is not correct enough.
5. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong E3D Hotend - but the Heatsink of the Mankati fitted to the Heatsink of the e3d - that was real easy
 

just one general remark here :

I personally think that the Mankati is a reasonable machine with a lot room for improvement - for 2000 USD I personally expect a bit more engineering - special if you buy it directly in China.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alkbert    1

I personally hadn´t any clogging problems up to now but - by the way - the original mankati filament is definitely not the best on the market. My main issue so far was the extruders of the printer with a constant rate of either under- or overextrusion - no matter which type or quality of the used filament. Slipping of the filament or - in the worst case - massive abrasion of filament within the extruder were my daily "pleasure". Changing the coil pressure, the wheel and the motor didn´t solve the problem that in the end I changed both to Bondtech QR ones. Since then I´m printing jobs up to almost 1 kg Filament over 72 hours and more - both with 0,4 and 0,3 nozzles and PLA. Beside some necessary fine tuning on the E-steps they´ve been running w/o any minor oder major problems.

Edited by Alkbert
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mvm    12

I agree with what Seadog and others have said.

Most problems are usually user or simply USE-induced.

Whenever I have problems with extrusion, I unscrew the bowden tube at both ends.

I have bought a 100 cm length 3mm threaded iron end and I simply push this through the bowden tube. The iron is soft enough to follow the curves and at the same time it is strong enough to use your strength to push through the bowden tube when something is stuck inside. 

And sometimes, when things are really messed up, I use a Dremel with a 3mm drill bit to just drill the end of the bowden tube clean. You have to do this carefully though.

 

Another thing I did was take a piece of white self-adhesive tape and put it on the backplate of the printer (on the inside). This give me a white background when I am adjusting my printbed and gives me a much better picture of the actual printbed - printnozzle distance when adjusting it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×